Monday, October 28, 2013

Santorini...even better than the postcard photos

Perfect white-washed villages, bright blue shutters and domes all hanging on to the tip top of sheer cliffs which drop to the aqua waters of the Mediterranean Sea.  The reality of today was eye-popping ly gorgeous.

We awoke to a brilliant sunrise and a forecast for 75 degrees and sun. We visited the famous town of Oia, that sits high atop the cliffs with homes built into them, everywhere we turned was like a postcard photo, only better. Our daughter in law Jill has been here and told us we had to see it as one of the most beautiful places on earth. She was so right!

We took pictures, wandered down streets that were made to 'accommodate a fully packed donkey', went to a wine tasting at the Santo Winery, lunched at a restaurant right on the edge of the cliff where we enjoyed Greek beer with our lunches, poked around shops, spent some quiet moments in a village Orthodox Church and tried to soak it all in. We ended the afternoon with a cable car ride down the cliff to the port.

The images of today will fill my head in the long Minnesota winter,

We are ending day ten of our cruise and it has been better than we even dreamed. However, my mind has begun wandering home with thoughts of peanut butter and banana sandwiches for lunch in our own sunroom, coffee in my kitchen and the view out my west windows. I do eagerly anticipate these last days of our trip though. There are still places to see, people to meet and things to do.

We have been privileged to dined each evening in the gourmet Blu Restaurant on board. Our wait staff, Shayla (Bosnia), Alvin (Phillipimes), Stefan (Serbia), Sasha (Jamaica) and Ivana from Serbia have become like family. We are learning their stories and creating friendships.

On the low side of today, I gave in and went to the doctor hoping for a cure for the rotten cough that has developed at the end of this cold. We will see what a little cough syrup with codeine will do to assist. I'm hopeful.

Tomorrow, Crete.

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Athens. A city of no words

I've been sitting here wondering how in the world I find even semi adequate words to describe Athens. None of the words I come up with will do justice. Athens was not the highlight for me as we planned this trip. Mykonos? yes! Santorini? Yes! But Athens, not so much.  I'm not all that into history and this place reeks of it.

Suffering with a crummy cold, I nearly bailed on the day of sightseeing to stay on the ship and rest, hot tub it and rest some more. Well, I got my act together knowing it was unlikely that I would come this way again.

I was unprepared and overwhelmed at every intersection and avenue in this historic place. Palatial buildings, exquisite churches  stadiums, and the ruins, the antiquities. I fell in love with Athens!

I can't read or understand the language but it all made sense to me. I am so aware of the 'ages' here. So aware of the past and all that has transpired here. Being a one-day tripper means that I really know nothing of this place, but I will never forget the experience of today.  Columns, steeples, statues, flowering trees, pretzel sellers on the corner, elderly people enjoying a slow Sunday morning coffee at sidewalk cages, the Apostle Paul and Mars Hill, the Acropolis, the Parthenon, Athena and Poseiden, the sea. It all came together under blue skies and 77 degree temps for me today. Here. Athens, Greece.

No more words.

Saturday, October 26, 2013

Mykonos. Even better than I hoped!

As I write we are sailing on to Athens after a spectacular day on Mykonos. It is an island I have dreamed of visiting. The weather didn't cooperate too well, and we had our first day of very windy, cool weather. Winds blew at about 30 mph and the temp was mid 60s. Hard to complain, however! We bundled up in jeans, sweaters and jackets and headed for the town. Shuttle buses drove us the three miles from the pier into town. It would have been nearly impossible to walk as there were no sidewalks and just a very narrow road with a hill on one side and the sea on the other.

Doug and Karen decided to do a ship day and enjoy the good places on board, so Dick and I ventured off alone. It is a picture perfect island with those five famous hillside windmills now centuries old. It is a hilly island and the hillsides are covered with the white, white, white stucco homes with blue, blue, blue trim. Fisherman's boats are pulled up here and there and the fisher guys gather in groups to chat on the sand, fix their nets, enjoy a cup of coffee, etc.

We enjoyed poking around the town on their teeny narrow lanes...about three people wide. Great shops...this is an island of the rich and famous in the summer so there are exquisitely expensive shops next door to local water color artists wares. The streets are a maze, and were actually designed that way to keep invaders from figuring out where anything was. We got lost countless times and loved every moment.

Lunch was right on the seaside. Out table was no more than 6' from the crashing waves. We enjoyed calamari, and cheese and spinach pies, which are phylo stuffed with good stuff and baked. Fabulous. We wandered and took pictures, and soaked up the ambiance for three hours and then made our way to the shuttle and back to the ship. The sun was brilliant even though the wind was biting at times.

At 6:00 we met Doug and Karen back on the ship and once again enjoyed having a drink together while we left the port and sailed into the sunset. An amazing treat.

I'm trying valiantly to get over a rotten cold and trying hard to not let it slow me down.  Tomorrow, Athens!

Loving this trip!!!

Friday, October 25, 2013

Greece!

Can I just say 'Wow!'  We sailed into Rhodes at 6:00 a.m. this morning just as the sun was rising. Dick and I stood on our veranda to watch the jaw-dropping beauty of sun light the water and shore of the Mediterranean. Twelve hours later we sat in the Reflection Lounge on the 11th deck of the ship and watched the sun sink into the sea as we sailed out of the harbor and headed toward Mykonos.

In between the spectacular shows put on by the sun we spent three and a half hours meandering the old walled city of Rhodes. The walls are 40' thick in some places and the cobblestone lanes wind every which way past shops selling pottery, silver, icons, clothing and leather. There are tens and tens of lovely, peaceful restaurants and bars with inviting chairs and tables situated under pomegranate trees.  There were fountains and parks, churches and mosques.

We learned to say good morning, good afternoon and thank you in Greek.  We are now fluent in Turkish and Greek ... As long as all you need are those three phrases!  After our wandering a we came back to the ship and sat poolside in the sun with our books and a view that was just astonishing.

Looking forward to tomorrow and whatever Mykonos brings! For now it is good night as this ship gently rocks us to sleep!

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Bodrum and Marmares Turkey

The views as our ship sails into these small ports on the Southeastern tip of Turkey are simply gorgeous. The area is known as the St Tropez of Turkey. The beach sand is more gravel than sugar sand, but the water is a clear turquoise. Both towns are nestled in bays at the foot of beautiful pine covered mountains.  Bodrum had a more middle class feel to it and today in Marmares, the yachts are huge and the shops elegant.  Open air bars and restaurants line the shoreline and there is a cat in the sun every ten feet!

We enjoyed adult beverages early afternoon under the shade of a giant umbrella at one of the restaurants.

This is our last day in Turkey, at midnight we sail to the Greek island of Rhodes.  We are trying hard to spend our Turkish lira.

Our pace is relaxing, not much rhythm to the days...just decide on the moment and explore swim, read, nap...

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

In the Light of the Silvery Moon and a birthday to be remembered

Sailing out of Istanbul on Sunday evening, champagne in hand was spectacular with lighted bridges and a huge full moon rising over the water. The four of us sat on our veranda and soaked up the beauty of it all long after we had left the city lights.

We ordered a room service breakfast on Monday and sat again on the veranda. Enjoying the morning sun and two pots of coffee, we sailed through the narrows out into the Aegean watching boats, ships, and hillsides with delight. The sea was shimmering blue.We ate lunch poolside and went to a couple of lectures on culture of the area in the afternoon. We are impressed with the huge diversity of countries represented on board...lots of Brazilians!

Early today (Tuesday) as the sun rose on our ship and on my birthday, we docked in the major port city of Kusadasi.  It is the port for Ephesus.  By 9:00 we had left the ship and connected with our private tour guide and the four of us were off to Ephesus.  It was more than we ever anticipated.  We saw orchards of mandarin oranges, peaches, apricots and olives, as well as hillsides of sheep as we drove up the mountain to the site of Mary's (mother of Jesus> home here in Ephesus. It is recorded that it was here she died.

The ruins of the city are incredible and reshape much of how I view the ancient world.  We walked down the marble streets in amazement of the architectural and artistic beauty of this place.

On then to a Turkish Carpet Cooperative that employs many former nomadic women as weavers,  we were treated to Turkish coffee, chai, pastries and tomatoes as goes the ancient process of selling rugs. Prices ranged from $1200 to $65,000. We saw some absolutely beautiful rugs but in the hour and a half resisted purchasing one...even though one clearly grabbed my heart!

Back to the city of Kusadasi and one last shopping experience led by our guide Inan. (Great guy.). He had arranged a birthday surprise,  I was taken to a pashmina shop and presented with a beautiful deep orange pashmina and we all were served wine and birthday cake with candles! Total surprise and gifts from him. Then his uncle arrived and lo and behold, he had the same rug I had fallen for, only in a much smaller size. Well. Can I just say I love it and can't wait until it is shipped?!  Thanks Dick!

Dinner on board at a specialty Italin restaurant complete with...cake and candles! The captain phoned his wishes to our stateroom and sent a rose!

This was a day not to ever be forgotten!!

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Jets, ships and a Bustling world class city

Taxis, airplanes, airports, one 2-hour flight and one 10 hour flight, on time arrival in Istanbul, baggage all accounted for and the shuttle to the hotel showed up as requested.  Istanbul!

The. The 25 minute drive along the shores of the beautiful Sea of Marmara to our hotel. Fishing boats, cargo ships, water taxis, ferries, sailboats, minarets in every direction, people and kitty cats everywhere. Wow. Istanbul!

It is a city of 15 million, sitting on many hills along the sea. Everything is green and blooming.

Too tired to go for the walk in the fresh air that we knew we needed, we opted instead for a wonderful dinner at the hotel with a window table overlooking the sea. Lamb kabobs and good wine.  Beautiful ambiance, and we began to relax.

A poor nights sleep (jet lag) was punctuated with the Call to Prayer at 6:15 a.m. I find it hauntingly beautiful. After a full breakfast at the hotel we were picked up for our 8 person tour. We started at the Grand Bazaar, the largest and oldest covered bazaar in the world, with 4000 shops on winding cobblestone streets. It is a feast for the eyes, ...my granddaughter would have loved it, everything sparkles from gold jewelry to mosaic lamps, to belly dancer costumes, to beaded shoes with turned up toes.

Then on to the magnificent Hagia Sophia, built in 500. It was the seat of Christendom for centuries, then an important mosque for centuries, and now a museum. We ended the morning with a walk through the underground cistern with its shimmering water, tall columns, walkways, and ethereal lighting. Janes Bonds From Russia With Love was filmed here!

Now we are on the ship and so delighted with it all. We have a lovely veranda that will be well used, a bottle of bubbly, fresh flowers, and 'just now delivered' canapés!

The adventure has begun.

PS correction to the last post...it is the Aegean Sea, not the Adriatic,

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Bucket List: Cruise the Greek Isles

Since I was in high school I have been captivated with the idea of the Greek Isles. Whether it is the incredible beauty I imagine there, or the culture, or a way of life so seemingly different from my own - the desire to see it up close and personal has always been a dream. My dream is about to come true.

Thursday, October 17 Dick and I, along with Dick's brother Doug and sis-in-law Karen, fly from Minneapolis to Istanbul to begin a journey that will take us down the western coast of Turkey to the ports of Ephesus, Bodrum and Marmares and then further out into the Mediterranean (Adriatic) to the islands of Rhodes,  Mykonos,Crete and Santorini, plus a day in Athens.  We will be cruising on the beautiful Celebrity Constellation for this 12 night adventure. Our trip begins with 48 hours in Istanbul - enough time to visit the Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market, and countless other historic sites. We will do some tours and some exploring on our own.  Our hotel for those first days is right on the shores of the busy Bosporus Sea.

I've not blogged since 2007, and I am feeling it may be time to start again with a broader concept than just 'Kathy's Travels.' I will ponder all of this while I sail into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean.  For now I invite you to come sit on the veranda of our stateroom and enjoy the trip with me!

Friday, March 30, 2007

Bakery, Canals, Sunshine and beers

What a day. On the recommendation of a friend we walked about 15 minutes and found La Glasse Conditori (bakery) for breakfast. It was as good as the recommendation promised. We had some lovely things with cream filling and chocolate, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee at a darling little table while watching all kinds of Danes coming in to order their Palm Sunday and Easter goodies. One of the chocolate marzipan Easter baskets - filled with good things of course, sold for $100 USD. Yikes - that's a lot of chocolate!

From there we caught a tour bus and toured the city in a really cool way. We saw the changing of the guard at the Palace (not quite Buckingham Palace but pretty impressive for us non royal types!), saw the Little Mermaid, the Dome Church, and tons of other things. A good tour guide who didn't do the cutesy stuff. Alleluia. Then we had lunch on one of the big squares - I tried to use a Public Toalett and couldn't figure it out and had three men trying to help me figure out how to close the door. I finally bolted and they all were so sympathetic. (Soon after I found a very nice "attended" public toalett that for 2 Krone allowed me in, allowed the door to shut, etc.!)

We have loved the big squares in this city. There are four that have become favorites. Copenhagen is a city of statues - they have more men on horses than Texas! We've had time today to just sit on the benches in the sunshine and watch the people. It is amazing to us however the amount of beers that most people have lined up with them on the park benches! With faces to the sun, there is rarely less than a 6-pack on the bench. Lots of very happy Danes here!

This afternoon we took a canal boat tour. The grand new very modern opera house seen from the water was quite spectacular. They fondly call it "The Toaster" but we thought it was just great art! Our favorite today was NyHavn - or New Harbor. WOW! Teeming with people and just one pub or restaurant after the next all lined up along the canal with the old, old, old rowhouses in bright and wonderful colors. Again each person had multiple beers or a few wines. Tons of tables peopled with Danes with their faces to the sun. Lots of exposed skin. Lots of exposed skin. Lots of exposed skin. Need I say more? :> We were exposing significantly less!

Found a restaurant near our hotel for a really good Thai meal this evening. Now back to the room to organize for going home tomorrow. It's time. We've loved this, but it's nice to want to go home!

Thursday, March 29, 2007

To Copenhagen on the fast Train

The sun keeps shining on us and we have just one more day that we really need it! We got up, breakfasted and then made our way the four blocks to the Stockholm Central Train Station. It was nuts but we figured out what to do and when and how to do it and before long were in our First Class Cabin on the fast train to Copenhagen. Fabulous. We could get used to travel like this. After the drive through Stockholm yesterday, the ease of today was pretty cool - great views, great seats, good coffee, good lunch...

Copenhage appears to be nothing like Stockholm. We think (after a few hours here) that Stockholm may be cleaner, more sophisticated and proper. Copenhagen is lusty, more teens and very young adults in punk attire, outrageous outfits on young and not so young, sexuality kind of flaunted, paople seem generally lively, lovely and fun! The Storget (pedistrian mall) is a much more "happening" place with little of the apparent class of Gamla Stan in Stockholm. We loved it -but for very different reasons than Stockholm. We walked for about two hours soaking up the sights and then had a fabulous Italian dinner on a side street just of Storget.

We're looking forward to a full day of playing in this city tomorrow as we learn her ins and outs, hidden streets and harbors and treats!

If This is Stockholm, WHY are we driving a CAR??!

Weds - Orebro to Stockholm
We left our hotel around 9:00 and headed out onto the freeway for a quick two hour drive to Stockholm. We continue to be amazed at how beautiful it is- craggy rocks, hills, lakes, lakes, lakes. We keep seeing "Moose Crossing" signs and have yet to lay eyes on a venerable moose. I keep calling to them to no avail.

As we came close to Stockholm we stopped at a StatOil station to fill the little Polo with diesel. That was the most complicated thing we've done so far as we couldn't figure out how to open the gas tank, nor now to operate the pump/credit card. Pretty funny (hindsight).

We have promised ourselves that we WILL laugh about our escapades in the drive through Stockholm...some day. Poor Dick. I don't know how he did it, what with driving on pedestrian walks, making u-turns in the middle of crazy streets, all 1.8 million Stockholmers out either in their cars or on foot just to make it tricky for us! We had to drive through several tunnels and would come up out of the tunnel unable to read even one street sign. We drove in large and small circles on this little island for about 25 minutes and then "fell" upon our hotel - on a deadend street with construction. We fell out of the car and into the hotel, realizing that we had to unload suitcases and then drive to the car drop off spot. Lordy. We lived through it and are beginning to smile .... but not laughing yet!

We loved Stockholm! The walking in Gamla Stan (Old City) was out of this world. Feasts for the eyes wherever you turned. After shopping well we made our way to the water and sat with all the Swedes with our faces turned toward the sun and soaked up the ambiance. Saw some cruise ships, ferries, etc. Had a glass of wine at one spot outdoors. We love that all the restaurants with outdoor seating have wonderful blankets tossed on every chair - so you just wrap up in the blanket and keep sipping your wine as the breeze blows! We walked about 6 gazillion miles - and are feeling it a day later. Had dinner at a British Pub with wonderful fish and chips - time to get away from the fish and mashed potatoes, Swede style!

If we thought we saw Niece Carolyn in Orebro we also saw many Niece Karrisas all over Stockholm ... some even appropriately pregnant! How fun.

Our hotel was above the huge pedestrian mall - we had a saxaphone player just below us on the street who seranaded us until the wee small hours of the morning when we finally closed the window in desperation. Obviously we aren't in Prospect Heights anymore. :>

We do love Stockholm - would come back again anytime!

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Connecting with the Ancestors

Today was a day to connect to our past. On this date in 1891 my maternal grandfather Carl Gustaf Adolf Anderson (age 7) and his family boarded a ship from the harbor in Goteburg for their trip to the new land. So by mid morning we had directions on how to take the tram to the harbor so that I could honor that crossing and all it meant for the Anderson family. We easily found our way (the tram system is incredibly easy to use). We walked across a huge walkway that took us over the freeway and down on the other side right next to the Goteburg Opera House. There is was. The Harbor. I tried to imagine what things would have looked like 117 years ago. I tried to imagine what feelings of fear, excitement and panic they were faced with. Did my great-grandmother really want to board that ship bound for "who knew where" with three children under the age of seven? What was she leaving behind? Who was she leaving behind? Dick went about taking many pictures while I stared at the water thanking God for their safe journey and the life they made in Central Minnesota. I felt so good about being able to be here to mark that date.

Then - back by tram and into our little VW Polo and off to see more of the world. Now it was Dick's turn! We headed north/northeast to Trollhatten, where his mom's family was from. We followed the Gota Canal all the way (about two hours) of lovely scenery. Again - lots of farms, lots of birch and pine and huge rocks. We wondered why after all these years are there still rocks all over the farmlands? Hmmmmmm. It looked alot like northern MN.

Trollhatten blew us away. I had read some about it and thought it would be a good sized industrial city on a river. It was gorgeous. A huge river, a falls, locks, and lovely parks taking advantage of all the water. We drove around from sight-seeing spot to sight seeing spot with camera at the ready. After exhausting all the overlooks we parked alongside the canal in center city and had lunch of a brie and salami sandwiches on crunchy homemade bread, with Fanta and a Swedish "sweet." We wandered the streets abit and then finally bid farewell to this really pretty place.

On to Orebro - about 3 hours on good roads - again with lots of lakes and farms. All the farms are red - red houses, red barns, red out-buildings, with just a few bright yellow houses thrown in for good measure. We arrived tired in Orebro and found our hotel in the center city. Got parked and settled and then wandered a bit. Found the castle, the church, and wonderful pedestrian walkways that Europe does so well. Pizza for dinner. (Carolyn Marie, I know you are reading this and your twin was at the same restaurant as we were for dinner. We were tempted to ask if we could take her picture but decided that wasn't very cool so we didn't. Trust us though...she exists!)

Now home to read maps for tomorrow as we zoom into Stockholm. What a treat it was today to remember with gratitude those brave souls of both our families.

Swedish Seaside Surprises

We left Lund in the beautiful sunshine and after effectively navigating the 'round abouts' we found ourselves zipping down the freeway at 110 kph. Okay, so that's not as fast as it sounds, but it still felt good to get moving fast into our days of playing. We marveled at how Minnesota-like it all looked. Lots of pine and birch trees, rolling hills, etc. About 20 minutes out of Lund we began seeing the sea - beautiful farms, wide open fields and sea. Trucks bore the license plates from all over Europe - Croatia, Czech Republic, Poland, GB, etc. So cool!

Traveling up the west coast of Sweden about midway to Goteburg we got off the freeway and opted for tiny village and farm roads. We drove seaside through the "Swedish Riviera'. We parked and walked along the beach at one point. The tide was out and the mud flats were in but it was fun anyway. We were amazed at the tiny summer houses lined up in rows. Literally not more than 300-500 square feet and one right on top of the next. We learned that they are very expensive and you buy them, but not the land, so you continue to pay rent on the land forever.

The early spring flowers were in bloom and we stopped to oooh and aaah at crocus fields, daffodils, etc. Took pictures of old thatch-roofed farm houses and loved the ambiance of it all.

On to Goteburg by about 2:00 and found our Hotel Tidbloms on the north end of this city of 600,000. The room was fabulous - high ceilings, moldings, huge windows, wooden floors, etc. We were in the turret end of the building so our room had a large curved wall. You could have put 2 1/2 of our room in Lund in this space.

We called Ling Andersson, a friend of Joanna Ferlan (Jill's mom). She wanted to meet us and show us her port city. She gave great directions and we took the tram to the city center and met her within the hour. She took us to Haga, the old city with lots of shops, boutiques, cobblestone, cafes, etc. After walking a bit we had coffee and "Swedish sweets" at a sidewalk cafe. The sun was glorious and Dick even toasted his "upper forehead" a bit! The Swedes were all facing the sun - in any little bit of sun they could find their faces were turned upward. We decided it must have been a LONG winter!

Ling is originally from Singapore but has lived in Goteburg since she was a child. She was a gracious and fun host for the rest of the day. We walked up to the "Avenue" and shopped in Orefors shops, wonderful dept stores (NK), etc. Then she took us to dinner at SoHo, a lovely place. We had such good conversations and learned a lot about the city and her life here. (She is married to a Swede and they have two boys.) At the end of the evening, Mats, her husband came to pick us up and take us back to the hotel. Such hospitality!

We crashed on our wonderful feather beds and were asleep in seconds. Excellent day. What will tomorrow hold?

Monday, March 26, 2007

Rental Cars, Maps, Adventure!

We're off to see Sweden! We had a wonderful dinner at the Grand Hotel in Lund last night - just four of us. We're figuring out the money, but when the cab fare is 140 it does cause one to gulp. Actually, we've learned that you divide by 7 and get a general USD price. Dick has just gone to get the rental car and hopefully an English explanation of road rules as we can't figure out the signs yet.

Yesterday was grand - we had a huge worship service in the Lund Cathedral - the choir was of Concordia/St. Olaf quality and so beautiful - the sound just rolled through the cathedral. It was impressive and meaningful. Then we all walked over to the university - the largest in Scandinavia for a light lunch and then to an afternoon celebrating the 60 years. It was well done with music, media, singing, choirs, etc. A little long but well worth it.

I forgot to tell the whole story of the elderly gentleman who had been at the first LWF meeting here. In 1947, he was a refugee from Hungary and somehow made his way to Lund. He was so well accepted by the LWF that he decided he would travel on to Caracus and begin work for the LWF there! After ten years in Venezuala he went to Geneva and served as the Latin America Desk Secretary for a number of years. Finally retired and then prior to the 1984 LWF Budapest in Hungary (where I was a delegate) he taught the LWF all about Hungarian culture and some language before they all went to the assembly. Now at 90 he is reveling in the memories of a life well lived and full of adventure! Such stories we hear here.

Well - check out time, load the car and head for Goteburg. Hopeing to connect with the Ferlan family friend on the phone shortly!

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Swedish Cloudberries

It is Sunday morning in Sweden and the sun is beautiful. We had the "opportunity" to enjoy the move to daylight savings time - one more time, so last night sprung our clocks ahead one hour. We think that will be the last time for the season!

My responsibilities are over and now it is wind-down time. The anniversary celebrations go through the whole day today. We begin with a huge worship service in the Lund Cathedral (taken by buses at 10 a.m.) and then a luncheon served somewhere at the university and then events throughout the afternoon. Dinner back here at the Scandic Hotel and then to the room to pack for tomorrows departure in our rental car.

Yesterday afternoon was a major focus on "The House of Europe". The keynote address was given by President Martii Ahtisaari, former president of Finland. He now works for the UN as a special emisary in negotiating peace. His most recent work has been in Kosova and his report will be delivered to the UN Security Council tomorrow morning for action. He is not hopeful for Kosovo. He has also worked with independence movements across Africa and brokered peace in a number of incredible places. His stories were quite incredible. After his speech we had 8 respondants - most of them also quite incredible. The learnings were over the top.

At the end of the afternoon we recognized five elderly people who had been part of the first meeting of the LWF here in Lund. To hear their stories was great. Most of them in their late 80s or 90s.

Much of our time has been spent eating as you know! Last night the Church of Sweden hosted a banquet. Following is the menu which was printed on small cards at each place:

Cognac- and rose pepper cured salmon with caviar dressing;
Baked pheasant breast served with cream boiled apples, pheasant gravy and potato tureen;
Swedish cloudberries with home-made vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and Swedish pyramid cake;
Coffee and Petit four

Wines: Casillero del Diablot Sauvignon Blan - 2003, Concha y Toro, Chile
Casillero del Diablo merlot - 2005, Concha y Toro, Chile

Yes it has been difficult dining as you can tell.

We rent our car in the morning - we learned last night that the car rental agency is 500 metres from the front door of the hotel - so then we are off to explore!

Saturday, March 24, 2007

Salmon, Shrimp, Perch, Caviar, Potatoes, Potatoes, Potatoes

We are being fed well and the fish in Sweden is wonderful! We are also quite partial to the potatoes - mashed, boiled, pureed, scalloped...every meal. The wine is flowing and the conversations are rich. We have had "official" dinners every evening with lovely presentations and many toasts.

It is amazing at an event like this to see and feel the rich texture of language, color, dress (some coveted and some not!). What a privilege. We are spending the days with our headsets dialed to English unless we want to take a brief vacation and listen to French for awhile. The setting for the meeting is a large, theater-type auditorium with plush, comfortable seating, wonderful technology, etc.

On Wednesday we had opportunity to worship in the 1000 year old Lund Cathedral - quite moving, although we found the Swedish music to be on the dark side... as in "Lentish"? We will return there on Sunday afternoon for the major celebrations of the 60th anniversary.

The location of the hotel in the outskirts of this small city does not allow for much wandering about - although the time for wandering about would be limited to before 6:00 a.m. and after 10:00 p.m. There is a lovely bar that serves fine California wine! Who knew those Swedes were so smart? Our exploring time will begin on Monday with our rental car.

Best conversations: Hedwig a bright,young woman pastor from Austria who is 50% highschool religion teacher and 50% pastor of a small suburban congregation; Esther Musah, a teacher from Liberia, who, after the long civil war is literally rebuilding a school - she just finished making 500 new mud bricks for the foundation of building #2; Doris Kitutu from Tanzania; and a businessman from Addis Ababa. A Swedish friend, Kristin Collander helped us get our train tickets for next Thursday from Stockholm to Copenhagen. It's the people that make this an incredible experience and also an exasperating one.

Last night we had a message on our phone that when we picked it up was totally in Swedish. We called the front desk and they just laughed and told us to delete it. Hope it wasn't terribly important!

Our Swedish is not improving - that may change when we leave this cocoon of Lutheranism and head out into the real world of Sweden and find we can't follow road signs, don't know what we are ordering for meals, etc.!

Time for coffee break - oh that means open-faced sandwiches, chocolate muffins, strong coffee and lots of sugar and cream! Tak!

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

If it is Tuesday, this must be Sweden

The trip over on SAS was lovely. Nice plane and new features that included cameras mounted so that you see what the pilots are seeings either straight ahead or down. Very cool. Lots of movies, etc. Not much sleep and leaving at 11p makes for a long night.

The arrival in Copenhagen was easy and we were greeted by youth with big signs welcoming the LWF in the baggage area. Got our bags and then tickets for the train to Lund. We had no clue what we were doing but we were having a great time! The town is very neat + cobblestone streets, university setting. Unfortunately the hotel is out in the burbs near the car dealerships. No place to walk and take in the ambiance. Too bad.

Last night it was like a family reunion with all the hellos and hugs. Nice dinner with ample wine, etc. Everything is expensive. A glass of wine at the bar is 10.00. As is a glass of beer. (I didn't have both).

The sun is shining and it is cold. Meetings begin at noon. There is wireless accessibility here so that makes life easier.

Havenät learned any Swedish yet + other than "tak" and I knew that before I came!

Happy Tuesday to all and Dick , if you read this please bring a washcloth for Rafael also!!''

Sunday, March 18, 2007

Kathy is off to Sweden!

I seem to travel in March! I'm off to Sweden tonight on SAS 944 at 11p. Twill be a late night! I'm headed for Lund, Sweden and the LWF Council Meeting. I fly direct to Copenhagen and then take a train over the bridge to Sweden. Lund is in the SW corner of Sweden. The meetings begin on Tuesday morning.

This is an especially important council meeting as the LWF is celebrating its 60th anniversary. Normally a council meeting is about 150 people. They are estimating 600 for this one - it will include the heads of all the 140 churches, along with lots of other dignitaries, guests, etc.

Dick will join me on Wednesday as an official observer. When the anniversary celebrations conclude on Sunday, Mar 25 we will leave for a little Sweden and Denmark exploring. I'll try to blog as is possible!

Tak!
Kathy Jo

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

Sunny in London!

The sun is finally shining here but it is really cold and windy. The rain is to return by noon. This morning we are off via the Tube to Lambeth Palace to meet with the staff of the Archbishop of Canterbury. Quite a lovely morning is planned. Then we have a group lunch at a pub and have the afternoon off. I may feel Harrods calling me! At 5:00 we will be welcomed at Evensong at Westminster Abbey and that is it! Home to the hotel to pack. I'm on a shuttle at 8:30 tomorrow morning to Heathrow althoug my flight isn't until 1:00 - we are going together to save $.

We successfully managed the tube yesterday and even did some transfers. Fortunately we were in a "pack" so I didn't have to rely on my non-existant ability to manuever subways. As we made our way in the 35 mph winds and rain from the tube station to Elizabeth House we began to question why we had not taken taxis. Oh well. Its the Lutheran look with your hair standing on end. We met there with the council for Christian Unity of the Church of England. They normally are housed in Westminster Abbey but it is undergoing major renovation so they are in temporary digs for a year. As we sat in the small conference room our view was of the London Eye (ferris wheel). It was right outside the window so provided fun watching.

The conversations were warm as was the welcome of tea and biscuits. They are the ecumenical arm of the church and provide for official relationships, partnerships and dialogs. They spoke at length (three of them) about how they support local unity processes across England. They also talked of rethinking all of it in terms of the mission agenda in this country.

"The society has walked away from old Christendom models and is embracing a sort of spiritually without really understanding what that even is." (Paul Avis.)

He said that in the US there is some "social credit" given to those who do go to church. In England that is no longer the case and in fact may be a "social detrement." They now realize that England is once again a mission field. Randy Lee commented that there is an acceleration of privatized spirituality - just me and Jesus in the U.S.

The conversation moved into some fairly technical ecumenical jargon and concepts - the scary part was that I understood all of it! I later found myself explaining it to others in our group.

We had an interesting conversation about women clergy as they do ordain women but they are not allowed to become bishops. The conversation got a tad lively! They wondered if they had women bishops what would they do with parishes who did not accept them AND other bishops who would not accept them. It made us feel that we have come quite a ways in the ELCA. They estimate the 20 % of their church would not accept women clergy at all.

They served us little sandwiches and fruit and then we headed back out into the wild weather and underground to the tube for the ride from Waterloo Sations to Baker where we transferred to another line and ended up in Winterbourne. our meeting there was with the Anglican communion and Gregory cameron. The first thing he did was lift up the LWF decomentation series on Anglican Lutheran Agreements. He had a stack of them on the table to give to those in our group who didn't have them.

They are in new apace at St. Andrews House. As I sat there in the garden level meeting room I was having tea and shortbread cookies while looking out on a lovely garden of blooming hyacinths, flowering crabapple treees, daffodils and pots hanging on a brick wall. Lots of birds.

They are planning their annual conversation with the LWF in Geneva. They will meet with Ishmael and with Sven Oppegard (Our LWF Ecumenical staff person). They are bringing in the two bishops from Israel/Palestine (Munib) for conversations of support, shared work, etc.

a big question for them is how they develop the next generation of theological educators. that proved to be a good discussion. It was lead by one of their staff - a woman who looked like a street person until she opened her mouth and you heard what she had to say!!!

Once again we enjoyed tea and shortbread biscuits. Yum. Then we disbursed - some to Evensong, some to shop, others to nap. Sally Almen, Faith and I went back to the hotel and then up to Covent Garden and walked the shops, etc. Faith and I ended up having dinner at Wellingtons Pub on the corner just beyond the hotel. I may have had my fill of fish and chips and beer by the time we leave tomorrow.

So - thats the last post from this trip - thanks for taking the ride with me!

Monday, March 27, 2006

Rainy London Morning

It is Monday morning in London and the red double decker buses are zooming past my window. I've had a lovely latte at Starbucks and have now found an open internet cafe. The one I hoped to use wasn't open. As I sat in the window of Starbucks not only were the buses passing by and gazillions of people making their way to work, but I could also see the Thames on this gray, drippy morning. Weather has not been positive on this trip!

Yesterday was lovely. We did not have anything scheduled until 2:00. I got up, had my Starbucks and then with four friends did the 2-hour double decker hop-on-hop-off bus tour of London. It is such a good way to get an overview of the city. At 2:00 we gathered and walked together over to St. Pauls for Evensong. How beautiful to sit in this marvelous cathedral with the Boy's Choir leading us. The service (of course) was almost all sung. We were honored guests and seated in the front row and welcomed by the Dean of the Cathedral. I was sitting just in front of a young man with an incredible voice - how fun it was to sing "with" him for the hymns which were all unfamiliar. After the service I popped down to the Cathedral gift shop and bought a CD of Christmas carols as in 2003 Dick and I attended the Lessons and Carols service here on Christmas Eve and had not gotten a CD which we have regretted. Then off to Nero's for coffee/hot chocolate and biscotti break with the gang. At 6:00 we attended the evening Jazz Service at St. Annes and St Agnes Lutheran church. I know the pastor (Jana) from her visits to the ELCA and prior visits here. It was also so fun to connect with an old friend from DGM staff, Pastor Margretha Kleiber who now lives in London. The service was amazing. (How many times have I used that word to explain this trip???) Charlie Beale was the pianist and there was a bass player and a sax player. I was almost moved to tears it was so beautiful. We "rocked" on a few songs but mostly let the music take us away.

After the service some walked back to the hotel - I hopped in a taxi for the ride. Then several of us went across the street from our hotel to the Savoy and had a drink. What a place! Then to a late dinner with a few from the group.

Now today we are off to meet with officials from the Church of England and then this afternoon with the Anglican Consultative Council. I think it is a free late afternoon so I hope to get to Covent Garden which is just a block behind the hotel. We are taking the Tube this morning so that will be a new experience for this trip. I'm glad someone else is leading - - it will be a follow experience for me!

Cheerio -

Saturday, March 25, 2006

In London Still reflecting on Rome

It is a rainy night in London and several of us have had fish and chips at Porters in Covent Garden. Fabulous. I had real beer (that's for Cory and Eric). Gor here about 6 pm

Back to Rome:
We had a wonderful dinner one night in Piazza Minerva - near our hotel. Charming with a huge fountain.

Cardinal Kasper in the Pontifical Council for Christian Unity:
Islam is not found only in Iraq and Iran. It is Rome and chicago. We must cultivate friendships as a start. We don't want a clash of civilizations, but a dialog.

Archbishop Felix Michado in the Pontifical Council for Inter Religious Affairs:
We can't force official dialogs but we can encourage conversation and relationships while being clear that Jesus is Lord. We can build bridges of friendship to encourage peace and understanding. The lack of central authority in Islam makes some of this difficult. Who speaks for them?

Tour of St. Peters Basilica:
I've toured it two times before but never with the cardinal who is the Archbishop of the Basilica!! He led us on an incredible tour. When we came to Pope John Pual II site, the guard moved all the other visitors back so we could go to the front. I got a bit separated and tried to reconnect. The gurad wasn't about to let me in. I said, "I'm with the Cardinal." MAGIC happened and I was in.

Then to the Pieta which Michael Angelo created at age 22. hundreds of peopel were trying to press close in awe and wonder. It is protected by a huge plexiglass box. Our Cardinal walks up to the door at the side and MAGIC the door at the side opens and we go INSIDE!!! All those people wondering who we are. We were gasping in awe. I can't tell you how incredible that was to be that close -- hand-touching close.

Then again ushered into a small and ornate private prayer chapel with the Cardinal.

Met with the Prefect of the Congregation of Bishops - His Emminesnce Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re. He is gregarious, kind, lively. Talked about hte role and characteristics of bishops. Good conversation. He ended by saying "You are the visible expression of ecumenism." He greeted each of us individually. Stats: 2603 bishops in the world; 1000 retired bishops. Each one visits the pope every five years.

All these meetings took place inside the Vatical in lovely conference rooms with desks, microphones at each of our places.

Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith: Archbishop Leveda from San Fran.
I had been in this same mtg room in 1994 with the then Cardinal Ratsinger...now Pope Benedict. Leveda is someone we know and in fact often has used the ELCA building for meetings. He was with a group at The Lutheran Center during the Conclave to elect a new bishop. He watched the proceedings from the TV o nthe wall in the Advent Room on the 11th floor. He shushed the group as the white smoke came out and they waited for the announcement. He had not planned to go to the inauguration of the new pope, but then learned who it was and that he was a good friend, so he decided to go to Rome for that incredible historical event. He met with the new Pope to promise his prayers and support and then the Pope told him he was making hi m a Cardinal and he would led the most important congregation in the Vatican. (Congregation means "Unit". He says, "I was floored and tried to talk him out of it!"

Visited the Abby of Sant'Anselmo located higho on one of Rome's seven hills. Met with the Abbot.

Lutherans in Rome - we finished by singing Dona Nobis with them.

PS on our visit to the movie hall that I sescribed last night the actor and director for A Beautiful Life...whose name I can't remember is Italian and was invited in to watch the movie with the Pope. They put the archbishop between them so he wouldnt in his excitement jump into the Popes lap!

All for now - daylight savings starts here tomorrow.
To bed ....

Friday, March 24, 2006

If its Friday this must be Roma

Well - I bet many of you have thought I had dropped off the face of the earth. I won't tell you how many meters I have walked trying to find an Internet Cafe! What's up with that.

Well I am now sitting in a cafe within shouting distance of San Pietro Square. What a good time we have had here. This morning we were privileged to have tickets to the Concistory - the solemn occasion when the Pope creates Cardinals. Unfortunately heirarchy is well at work here and while we all had tickets, the clergy were separated from the "regular" people of God for the service. So our bishops and clergy trooped up to front seats while the rest of us sat many meters back. The view for us was really good tho and we had the advantage of having the large screens to see the up close shots. Fifteen men became cardinals and now have the cardinal hats and all the responsibility that goes with it. [We think they may also have a secret handshake now}

The weather here has been less than beautiful. It has rained almost everyday and when the wind blows we pull up our winter coat collars. It was more than a tad chilly sitting out in St. Peters Square this morning, but then if we looked back at the thousands behind us who didn't have seats at all we realize we were quite well cared for.

We have had amazing access inside the Vatican walls. Our host is Father Matthais Turk a long time friend of the ELCA - he is about 40 and rides a motorcycle with helmet and shades while smoking a cigarette. Do you get a picture. --I canàt find the question mark on this keyboard...sorry--. We saw the Sistene Chapel yesterday ...Joshua, I thought of you! It is just so amazing. We also spent time in the Vatican Museum but that could take a week instead of an hour. Prior to that we met with the Archbishop in charge of Communications for the Vatican. He has a staff of 200. We met in the movie theater...they actually have movie nights! We saw the big white armchair that the Pope sits in when he watches a movie! We did wonder about the popcorn and diet cokes! All of that presentation and conversation was just excellent.

We have also spent time at Vatican Radio.

Our hotel is not so posh as in Istanbul. In fact... Well. We are not inside the walls as we had thought but in a Vatican owned hotel just off the Piazza Navanno which is my fav piazza in the world. The hotel is strange and sad. If you think retreat center you will understand it better. Many priests stay here . I am in room 108 which takes about 15 minutes to find on a good day. Up one staircase and down a nother, through the dining room and a back door and up some other stairs. It is two rooms joined by a giant arch and no one is ..thankfully.. in the other room. I have a bathroom with a huge tub which I have loved. My view out the big picture windows is of the store across the street and the alley. Oh well. It serves me well.

We have had wonderful meals in many great little trattorias - many of them heated with the big heat lamps like Tommie and Joanna have up at the lake. Much wine has been enjoyed in those settings.

We had significant meetings with Cardinal Kasper and his staff in the Pontifical Council for Christian Unity. These are people we work with often and it did indeed feel like we were home. We discussed the challenges of pentecostalism. The new pope has declared ecumenism to be a priority so that has given them and us some strong signs. 'Spirituality is not a slogan. It is subjective, individual and the teachings of the church flow through it.' HE also said 'I must be patient with our Orthodox converstiaons. And I admit patience is not my best virtue.' (must be related to Erica Jo Koser!

Then we met in the chambers of the Pontifical Council for InterReligous Affairs. -- all of these are very very nice offices-conference rooms to which most people never have access. We just get waved through as long as Father Turk is with us!! We had interesting discussions on Muslim relations.

We were taken on a private tour of the Scavy - where popes are buried and where Peters burial site is. Quite moving except for the fact that I got clostrophobic and had to ask to be let out of the underground. Lovely. I really thoguth I was going to faint. Fortunally Bishop Roy Riley was also feeling short of oxygen so the two of us came up out of the catacombs into the light and the rain.

There is much much much more to tell but this will suffice for now. Oh yes - we were part of the General Audience of the Pope on Weds morning and had private seating for that. Not as cool as the private audiences we have had in the past but with the Concistory this week things in Vatican City are hectic. We have also seen some of the Catholic universities here which has been interesting and a fab evening last ngiht with the Sant Edigio Community. That was incredible. Also had dinner on Weds night with the Lutherans in Rome!!

All is well - tomorrow we leave about noon for London via Munich.