Monday, October 28, 2013

Santorini...even better than the postcard photos

Perfect white-washed villages, bright blue shutters and domes all hanging on to the tip top of sheer cliffs which drop to the aqua waters of the Mediterranean Sea.  The reality of today was eye-popping ly gorgeous.

We awoke to a brilliant sunrise and a forecast for 75 degrees and sun. We visited the famous town of Oia, that sits high atop the cliffs with homes built into them, everywhere we turned was like a postcard photo, only better. Our daughter in law Jill has been here and told us we had to see it as one of the most beautiful places on earth. She was so right!

We took pictures, wandered down streets that were made to 'accommodate a fully packed donkey', went to a wine tasting at the Santo Winery, lunched at a restaurant right on the edge of the cliff where we enjoyed Greek beer with our lunches, poked around shops, spent some quiet moments in a village Orthodox Church and tried to soak it all in. We ended the afternoon with a cable car ride down the cliff to the port.

The images of today will fill my head in the long Minnesota winter,

We are ending day ten of our cruise and it has been better than we even dreamed. However, my mind has begun wandering home with thoughts of peanut butter and banana sandwiches for lunch in our own sunroom, coffee in my kitchen and the view out my west windows. I do eagerly anticipate these last days of our trip though. There are still places to see, people to meet and things to do.

We have been privileged to dined each evening in the gourmet Blu Restaurant on board. Our wait staff, Shayla (Bosnia), Alvin (Phillipimes), Stefan (Serbia), Sasha (Jamaica) and Ivana from Serbia have become like family. We are learning their stories and creating friendships.

On the low side of today, I gave in and went to the doctor hoping for a cure for the rotten cough that has developed at the end of this cold. We will see what a little cough syrup with codeine will do to assist. I'm hopeful.

Tomorrow, Crete.

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Athens. A city of no words

I've been sitting here wondering how in the world I find even semi adequate words to describe Athens. None of the words I come up with will do justice. Athens was not the highlight for me as we planned this trip. Mykonos? yes! Santorini? Yes! But Athens, not so much.  I'm not all that into history and this place reeks of it.

Suffering with a crummy cold, I nearly bailed on the day of sightseeing to stay on the ship and rest, hot tub it and rest some more. Well, I got my act together knowing it was unlikely that I would come this way again.

I was unprepared and overwhelmed at every intersection and avenue in this historic place. Palatial buildings, exquisite churches  stadiums, and the ruins, the antiquities. I fell in love with Athens!

I can't read or understand the language but it all made sense to me. I am so aware of the 'ages' here. So aware of the past and all that has transpired here. Being a one-day tripper means that I really know nothing of this place, but I will never forget the experience of today.  Columns, steeples, statues, flowering trees, pretzel sellers on the corner, elderly people enjoying a slow Sunday morning coffee at sidewalk cages, the Apostle Paul and Mars Hill, the Acropolis, the Parthenon, Athena and Poseiden, the sea. It all came together under blue skies and 77 degree temps for me today. Here. Athens, Greece.

No more words.

Saturday, October 26, 2013

Mykonos. Even better than I hoped!

As I write we are sailing on to Athens after a spectacular day on Mykonos. It is an island I have dreamed of visiting. The weather didn't cooperate too well, and we had our first day of very windy, cool weather. Winds blew at about 30 mph and the temp was mid 60s. Hard to complain, however! We bundled up in jeans, sweaters and jackets and headed for the town. Shuttle buses drove us the three miles from the pier into town. It would have been nearly impossible to walk as there were no sidewalks and just a very narrow road with a hill on one side and the sea on the other.

Doug and Karen decided to do a ship day and enjoy the good places on board, so Dick and I ventured off alone. It is a picture perfect island with those five famous hillside windmills now centuries old. It is a hilly island and the hillsides are covered with the white, white, white stucco homes with blue, blue, blue trim. Fisherman's boats are pulled up here and there and the fisher guys gather in groups to chat on the sand, fix their nets, enjoy a cup of coffee, etc.

We enjoyed poking around the town on their teeny narrow lanes...about three people wide. Great shops...this is an island of the rich and famous in the summer so there are exquisitely expensive shops next door to local water color artists wares. The streets are a maze, and were actually designed that way to keep invaders from figuring out where anything was. We got lost countless times and loved every moment.

Lunch was right on the seaside. Out table was no more than 6' from the crashing waves. We enjoyed calamari, and cheese and spinach pies, which are phylo stuffed with good stuff and baked. Fabulous. We wandered and took pictures, and soaked up the ambiance for three hours and then made our way to the shuttle and back to the ship. The sun was brilliant even though the wind was biting at times.

At 6:00 we met Doug and Karen back on the ship and once again enjoyed having a drink together while we left the port and sailed into the sunset. An amazing treat.

I'm trying valiantly to get over a rotten cold and trying hard to not let it slow me down.  Tomorrow, Athens!

Loving this trip!!!

Friday, October 25, 2013

Greece!

Can I just say 'Wow!'  We sailed into Rhodes at 6:00 a.m. this morning just as the sun was rising. Dick and I stood on our veranda to watch the jaw-dropping beauty of sun light the water and shore of the Mediterranean. Twelve hours later we sat in the Reflection Lounge on the 11th deck of the ship and watched the sun sink into the sea as we sailed out of the harbor and headed toward Mykonos.

In between the spectacular shows put on by the sun we spent three and a half hours meandering the old walled city of Rhodes. The walls are 40' thick in some places and the cobblestone lanes wind every which way past shops selling pottery, silver, icons, clothing and leather. There are tens and tens of lovely, peaceful restaurants and bars with inviting chairs and tables situated under pomegranate trees.  There were fountains and parks, churches and mosques.

We learned to say good morning, good afternoon and thank you in Greek.  We are now fluent in Turkish and Greek ... As long as all you need are those three phrases!  After our wandering a we came back to the ship and sat poolside in the sun with our books and a view that was just astonishing.

Looking forward to tomorrow and whatever Mykonos brings! For now it is good night as this ship gently rocks us to sleep!

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Bodrum and Marmares Turkey

The views as our ship sails into these small ports on the Southeastern tip of Turkey are simply gorgeous. The area is known as the St Tropez of Turkey. The beach sand is more gravel than sugar sand, but the water is a clear turquoise. Both towns are nestled in bays at the foot of beautiful pine covered mountains.  Bodrum had a more middle class feel to it and today in Marmares, the yachts are huge and the shops elegant.  Open air bars and restaurants line the shoreline and there is a cat in the sun every ten feet!

We enjoyed adult beverages early afternoon under the shade of a giant umbrella at one of the restaurants.

This is our last day in Turkey, at midnight we sail to the Greek island of Rhodes.  We are trying hard to spend our Turkish lira.

Our pace is relaxing, not much rhythm to the days...just decide on the moment and explore swim, read, nap...

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

In the Light of the Silvery Moon and a birthday to be remembered

Sailing out of Istanbul on Sunday evening, champagne in hand was spectacular with lighted bridges and a huge full moon rising over the water. The four of us sat on our veranda and soaked up the beauty of it all long after we had left the city lights.

We ordered a room service breakfast on Monday and sat again on the veranda. Enjoying the morning sun and two pots of coffee, we sailed through the narrows out into the Aegean watching boats, ships, and hillsides with delight. The sea was shimmering blue.We ate lunch poolside and went to a couple of lectures on culture of the area in the afternoon. We are impressed with the huge diversity of countries represented on board...lots of Brazilians!

Early today (Tuesday) as the sun rose on our ship and on my birthday, we docked in the major port city of Kusadasi.  It is the port for Ephesus.  By 9:00 we had left the ship and connected with our private tour guide and the four of us were off to Ephesus.  It was more than we ever anticipated.  We saw orchards of mandarin oranges, peaches, apricots and olives, as well as hillsides of sheep as we drove up the mountain to the site of Mary's (mother of Jesus> home here in Ephesus. It is recorded that it was here she died.

The ruins of the city are incredible and reshape much of how I view the ancient world.  We walked down the marble streets in amazement of the architectural and artistic beauty of this place.

On then to a Turkish Carpet Cooperative that employs many former nomadic women as weavers,  we were treated to Turkish coffee, chai, pastries and tomatoes as goes the ancient process of selling rugs. Prices ranged from $1200 to $65,000. We saw some absolutely beautiful rugs but in the hour and a half resisted purchasing one...even though one clearly grabbed my heart!

Back to the city of Kusadasi and one last shopping experience led by our guide Inan. (Great guy.). He had arranged a birthday surprise,  I was taken to a pashmina shop and presented with a beautiful deep orange pashmina and we all were served wine and birthday cake with candles! Total surprise and gifts from him. Then his uncle arrived and lo and behold, he had the same rug I had fallen for, only in a much smaller size. Well. Can I just say I love it and can't wait until it is shipped?!  Thanks Dick!

Dinner on board at a specialty Italin restaurant complete with...cake and candles! The captain phoned his wishes to our stateroom and sent a rose!

This was a day not to ever be forgotten!!

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Jets, ships and a Bustling world class city

Taxis, airplanes, airports, one 2-hour flight and one 10 hour flight, on time arrival in Istanbul, baggage all accounted for and the shuttle to the hotel showed up as requested.  Istanbul!

The. The 25 minute drive along the shores of the beautiful Sea of Marmara to our hotel. Fishing boats, cargo ships, water taxis, ferries, sailboats, minarets in every direction, people and kitty cats everywhere. Wow. Istanbul!

It is a city of 15 million, sitting on many hills along the sea. Everything is green and blooming.

Too tired to go for the walk in the fresh air that we knew we needed, we opted instead for a wonderful dinner at the hotel with a window table overlooking the sea. Lamb kabobs and good wine.  Beautiful ambiance, and we began to relax.

A poor nights sleep (jet lag) was punctuated with the Call to Prayer at 6:15 a.m. I find it hauntingly beautiful. After a full breakfast at the hotel we were picked up for our 8 person tour. We started at the Grand Bazaar, the largest and oldest covered bazaar in the world, with 4000 shops on winding cobblestone streets. It is a feast for the eyes, ...my granddaughter would have loved it, everything sparkles from gold jewelry to mosaic lamps, to belly dancer costumes, to beaded shoes with turned up toes.

Then on to the magnificent Hagia Sophia, built in 500. It was the seat of Christendom for centuries, then an important mosque for centuries, and now a museum. We ended the morning with a walk through the underground cistern with its shimmering water, tall columns, walkways, and ethereal lighting. Janes Bonds From Russia With Love was filmed here!

Now we are on the ship and so delighted with it all. We have a lovely veranda that will be well used, a bottle of bubbly, fresh flowers, and 'just now delivered' canapés!

The adventure has begun.

PS correction to the last post...it is the Aegean Sea, not the Adriatic,

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Bucket List: Cruise the Greek Isles

Since I was in high school I have been captivated with the idea of the Greek Isles. Whether it is the incredible beauty I imagine there, or the culture, or a way of life so seemingly different from my own - the desire to see it up close and personal has always been a dream. My dream is about to come true.

Thursday, October 17 Dick and I, along with Dick's brother Doug and sis-in-law Karen, fly from Minneapolis to Istanbul to begin a journey that will take us down the western coast of Turkey to the ports of Ephesus, Bodrum and Marmares and then further out into the Mediterranean (Adriatic) to the islands of Rhodes,  Mykonos,Crete and Santorini, plus a day in Athens.  We will be cruising on the beautiful Celebrity Constellation for this 12 night adventure. Our trip begins with 48 hours in Istanbul - enough time to visit the Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market, and countless other historic sites. We will do some tours and some exploring on our own.  Our hotel for those first days is right on the shores of the busy Bosporus Sea.

I've not blogged since 2007, and I am feeling it may be time to start again with a broader concept than just 'Kathy's Travels.' I will ponder all of this while I sail into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean.  For now I invite you to come sit on the veranda of our stateroom and enjoy the trip with me!