The sun is finally shining here but it is really cold and windy. The rain is to return by noon. This morning we are off via the Tube to Lambeth Palace to meet with the staff of the Archbishop of Canterbury. Quite a lovely morning is planned. Then we have a group lunch at a pub and have the afternoon off. I may feel Harrods calling me! At 5:00 we will be welcomed at Evensong at Westminster Abbey and that is it! Home to the hotel to pack. I'm on a shuttle at 8:30 tomorrow morning to Heathrow althoug my flight isn't until 1:00 - we are going together to save $.
We successfully managed the tube yesterday and even did some transfers. Fortunately we were in a "pack" so I didn't have to rely on my non-existant ability to manuever subways. As we made our way in the 35 mph winds and rain from the tube station to Elizabeth House we began to question why we had not taken taxis. Oh well. Its the Lutheran look with your hair standing on end. We met there with the council for Christian Unity of the Church of England. They normally are housed in Westminster Abbey but it is undergoing major renovation so they are in temporary digs for a year. As we sat in the small conference room our view was of the London Eye (ferris wheel). It was right outside the window so provided fun watching.
The conversations were warm as was the welcome of tea and biscuits. They are the ecumenical arm of the church and provide for official relationships, partnerships and dialogs. They spoke at length (three of them) about how they support local unity processes across England. They also talked of rethinking all of it in terms of the mission agenda in this country.
"The society has walked away from old Christendom models and is embracing a sort of spiritually without really understanding what that even is." (Paul Avis.)
He said that in the US there is some "social credit" given to those who do go to church. In England that is no longer the case and in fact may be a "social detrement." They now realize that England is once again a mission field. Randy Lee commented that there is an acceleration of privatized spirituality - just me and Jesus in the U.S.
The conversation moved into some fairly technical ecumenical jargon and concepts - the scary part was that I understood all of it! I later found myself explaining it to others in our group.
We had an interesting conversation about women clergy as they do ordain women but they are not allowed to become bishops. The conversation got a tad lively! They wondered if they had women bishops what would they do with parishes who did not accept them AND other bishops who would not accept them. It made us feel that we have come quite a ways in the ELCA. They estimate the 20 % of their church would not accept women clergy at all.
They served us little sandwiches and fruit and then we headed back out into the wild weather and underground to the tube for the ride from Waterloo Sations to Baker where we transferred to another line and ended up in Winterbourne. our meeting there was with the Anglican communion and Gregory cameron. The first thing he did was lift up the LWF decomentation series on Anglican Lutheran Agreements. He had a stack of them on the table to give to those in our group who didn't have them.
They are in new apace at St. Andrews House. As I sat there in the garden level meeting room I was having tea and shortbread cookies while looking out on a lovely garden of blooming hyacinths, flowering crabapple treees, daffodils and pots hanging on a brick wall. Lots of birds.
They are planning their annual conversation with the LWF in Geneva. They will meet with Ishmael and with Sven Oppegard (Our LWF Ecumenical staff person). They are bringing in the two bishops from Israel/Palestine (Munib) for conversations of support, shared work, etc.
a big question for them is how they develop the next generation of theological educators. that proved to be a good discussion. It was lead by one of their staff - a woman who looked like a street person until she opened her mouth and you heard what she had to say!!!
Once again we enjoyed tea and shortbread biscuits. Yum. Then we disbursed - some to Evensong, some to shop, others to nap. Sally Almen, Faith and I went back to the hotel and then up to Covent Garden and walked the shops, etc. Faith and I ended up having dinner at Wellingtons Pub on the corner just beyond the hotel. I may have had my fill of fish and chips and beer by the time we leave tomorrow.
So - thats the last post from this trip - thanks for taking the ride with me!
Tuesday, March 28, 2006
Monday, March 27, 2006
Rainy London Morning
It is Monday morning in London and the red double decker buses are zooming past my window. I've had a lovely latte at Starbucks and have now found an open internet cafe. The one I hoped to use wasn't open. As I sat in the window of Starbucks not only were the buses passing by and gazillions of people making their way to work, but I could also see the Thames on this gray, drippy morning. Weather has not been positive on this trip!
Yesterday was lovely. We did not have anything scheduled until 2:00. I got up, had my Starbucks and then with four friends did the 2-hour double decker hop-on-hop-off bus tour of London. It is such a good way to get an overview of the city. At 2:00 we gathered and walked together over to St. Pauls for Evensong. How beautiful to sit in this marvelous cathedral with the Boy's Choir leading us. The service (of course) was almost all sung. We were honored guests and seated in the front row and welcomed by the Dean of the Cathedral. I was sitting just in front of a young man with an incredible voice - how fun it was to sing "with" him for the hymns which were all unfamiliar. After the service I popped down to the Cathedral gift shop and bought a CD of Christmas carols as in 2003 Dick and I attended the Lessons and Carols service here on Christmas Eve and had not gotten a CD which we have regretted. Then off to Nero's for coffee/hot chocolate and biscotti break with the gang. At 6:00 we attended the evening Jazz Service at St. Annes and St Agnes Lutheran church. I know the pastor (Jana) from her visits to the ELCA and prior visits here. It was also so fun to connect with an old friend from DGM staff, Pastor Margretha Kleiber who now lives in London. The service was amazing. (How many times have I used that word to explain this trip???) Charlie Beale was the pianist and there was a bass player and a sax player. I was almost moved to tears it was so beautiful. We "rocked" on a few songs but mostly let the music take us away.
After the service some walked back to the hotel - I hopped in a taxi for the ride. Then several of us went across the street from our hotel to the Savoy and had a drink. What a place! Then to a late dinner with a few from the group.
Now today we are off to meet with officials from the Church of England and then this afternoon with the Anglican Consultative Council. I think it is a free late afternoon so I hope to get to Covent Garden which is just a block behind the hotel. We are taking the Tube this morning so that will be a new experience for this trip. I'm glad someone else is leading - - it will be a follow experience for me!
Cheerio -
Yesterday was lovely. We did not have anything scheduled until 2:00. I got up, had my Starbucks and then with four friends did the 2-hour double decker hop-on-hop-off bus tour of London. It is such a good way to get an overview of the city. At 2:00 we gathered and walked together over to St. Pauls for Evensong. How beautiful to sit in this marvelous cathedral with the Boy's Choir leading us. The service (of course) was almost all sung. We were honored guests and seated in the front row and welcomed by the Dean of the Cathedral. I was sitting just in front of a young man with an incredible voice - how fun it was to sing "with" him for the hymns which were all unfamiliar. After the service I popped down to the Cathedral gift shop and bought a CD of Christmas carols as in 2003 Dick and I attended the Lessons and Carols service here on Christmas Eve and had not gotten a CD which we have regretted. Then off to Nero's for coffee/hot chocolate and biscotti break with the gang. At 6:00 we attended the evening Jazz Service at St. Annes and St Agnes Lutheran church. I know the pastor (Jana) from her visits to the ELCA and prior visits here. It was also so fun to connect with an old friend from DGM staff, Pastor Margretha Kleiber who now lives in London. The service was amazing. (How many times have I used that word to explain this trip???) Charlie Beale was the pianist and there was a bass player and a sax player. I was almost moved to tears it was so beautiful. We "rocked" on a few songs but mostly let the music take us away.
After the service some walked back to the hotel - I hopped in a taxi for the ride. Then several of us went across the street from our hotel to the Savoy and had a drink. What a place! Then to a late dinner with a few from the group.
Now today we are off to meet with officials from the Church of England and then this afternoon with the Anglican Consultative Council. I think it is a free late afternoon so I hope to get to Covent Garden which is just a block behind the hotel. We are taking the Tube this morning so that will be a new experience for this trip. I'm glad someone else is leading - - it will be a follow experience for me!
Cheerio -
Saturday, March 25, 2006
In London Still reflecting on Rome
It is a rainy night in London and several of us have had fish and chips at Porters in Covent Garden. Fabulous. I had real beer (that's for Cory and Eric). Gor here about 6 pm
Back to Rome:
We had a wonderful dinner one night in Piazza Minerva - near our hotel. Charming with a huge fountain.
Cardinal Kasper in the Pontifical Council for Christian Unity:
Islam is not found only in Iraq and Iran. It is Rome and chicago. We must cultivate friendships as a start. We don't want a clash of civilizations, but a dialog.
Archbishop Felix Michado in the Pontifical Council for Inter Religious Affairs:
We can't force official dialogs but we can encourage conversation and relationships while being clear that Jesus is Lord. We can build bridges of friendship to encourage peace and understanding. The lack of central authority in Islam makes some of this difficult. Who speaks for them?
Tour of St. Peters Basilica:
I've toured it two times before but never with the cardinal who is the Archbishop of the Basilica!! He led us on an incredible tour. When we came to Pope John Pual II site, the guard moved all the other visitors back so we could go to the front. I got a bit separated and tried to reconnect. The gurad wasn't about to let me in. I said, "I'm with the Cardinal." MAGIC happened and I was in.
Then to the Pieta which Michael Angelo created at age 22. hundreds of peopel were trying to press close in awe and wonder. It is protected by a huge plexiglass box. Our Cardinal walks up to the door at the side and MAGIC the door at the side opens and we go INSIDE!!! All those people wondering who we are. We were gasping in awe. I can't tell you how incredible that was to be that close -- hand-touching close.
Then again ushered into a small and ornate private prayer chapel with the Cardinal.
Met with the Prefect of the Congregation of Bishops - His Emminesnce Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re. He is gregarious, kind, lively. Talked about hte role and characteristics of bishops. Good conversation. He ended by saying "You are the visible expression of ecumenism." He greeted each of us individually. Stats: 2603 bishops in the world; 1000 retired bishops. Each one visits the pope every five years.
All these meetings took place inside the Vatical in lovely conference rooms with desks, microphones at each of our places.
Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith: Archbishop Leveda from San Fran.
I had been in this same mtg room in 1994 with the then Cardinal Ratsinger...now Pope Benedict. Leveda is someone we know and in fact often has used the ELCA building for meetings. He was with a group at The Lutheran Center during the Conclave to elect a new bishop. He watched the proceedings from the TV o nthe wall in the Advent Room on the 11th floor. He shushed the group as the white smoke came out and they waited for the announcement. He had not planned to go to the inauguration of the new pope, but then learned who it was and that he was a good friend, so he decided to go to Rome for that incredible historical event. He met with the new Pope to promise his prayers and support and then the Pope told him he was making hi m a Cardinal and he would led the most important congregation in the Vatican. (Congregation means "Unit". He says, "I was floored and tried to talk him out of it!"
Visited the Abby of Sant'Anselmo located higho on one of Rome's seven hills. Met with the Abbot.
Lutherans in Rome - we finished by singing Dona Nobis with them.
PS on our visit to the movie hall that I sescribed last night the actor and director for A Beautiful Life...whose name I can't remember is Italian and was invited in to watch the movie with the Pope. They put the archbishop between them so he wouldnt in his excitement jump into the Popes lap!
All for now - daylight savings starts here tomorrow.
To bed ....
Back to Rome:
We had a wonderful dinner one night in Piazza Minerva - near our hotel. Charming with a huge fountain.
Cardinal Kasper in the Pontifical Council for Christian Unity:
Islam is not found only in Iraq and Iran. It is Rome and chicago. We must cultivate friendships as a start. We don't want a clash of civilizations, but a dialog.
Archbishop Felix Michado in the Pontifical Council for Inter Religious Affairs:
We can't force official dialogs but we can encourage conversation and relationships while being clear that Jesus is Lord. We can build bridges of friendship to encourage peace and understanding. The lack of central authority in Islam makes some of this difficult. Who speaks for them?
Tour of St. Peters Basilica:
I've toured it two times before but never with the cardinal who is the Archbishop of the Basilica!! He led us on an incredible tour. When we came to Pope John Pual II site, the guard moved all the other visitors back so we could go to the front. I got a bit separated and tried to reconnect. The gurad wasn't about to let me in. I said, "I'm with the Cardinal." MAGIC happened and I was in.
Then to the Pieta which Michael Angelo created at age 22. hundreds of peopel were trying to press close in awe and wonder. It is protected by a huge plexiglass box. Our Cardinal walks up to the door at the side and MAGIC the door at the side opens and we go INSIDE!!! All those people wondering who we are. We were gasping in awe. I can't tell you how incredible that was to be that close -- hand-touching close.
Then again ushered into a small and ornate private prayer chapel with the Cardinal.
Met with the Prefect of the Congregation of Bishops - His Emminesnce Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re. He is gregarious, kind, lively. Talked about hte role and characteristics of bishops. Good conversation. He ended by saying "You are the visible expression of ecumenism." He greeted each of us individually. Stats: 2603 bishops in the world; 1000 retired bishops. Each one visits the pope every five years.
All these meetings took place inside the Vatical in lovely conference rooms with desks, microphones at each of our places.
Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith: Archbishop Leveda from San Fran.
I had been in this same mtg room in 1994 with the then Cardinal Ratsinger...now Pope Benedict. Leveda is someone we know and in fact often has used the ELCA building for meetings. He was with a group at The Lutheran Center during the Conclave to elect a new bishop. He watched the proceedings from the TV o nthe wall in the Advent Room on the 11th floor. He shushed the group as the white smoke came out and they waited for the announcement. He had not planned to go to the inauguration of the new pope, but then learned who it was and that he was a good friend, so he decided to go to Rome for that incredible historical event. He met with the new Pope to promise his prayers and support and then the Pope told him he was making hi m a Cardinal and he would led the most important congregation in the Vatican. (Congregation means "Unit". He says, "I was floored and tried to talk him out of it!"
Visited the Abby of Sant'Anselmo located higho on one of Rome's seven hills. Met with the Abbot.
Lutherans in Rome - we finished by singing Dona Nobis with them.
PS on our visit to the movie hall that I sescribed last night the actor and director for A Beautiful Life...whose name I can't remember is Italian and was invited in to watch the movie with the Pope. They put the archbishop between them so he wouldnt in his excitement jump into the Popes lap!
All for now - daylight savings starts here tomorrow.
To bed ....
Friday, March 24, 2006
If its Friday this must be Roma
Well - I bet many of you have thought I had dropped off the face of the earth. I won't tell you how many meters I have walked trying to find an Internet Cafe! What's up with that.
Well I am now sitting in a cafe within shouting distance of San Pietro Square. What a good time we have had here. This morning we were privileged to have tickets to the Concistory - the solemn occasion when the Pope creates Cardinals. Unfortunately heirarchy is well at work here and while we all had tickets, the clergy were separated from the "regular" people of God for the service. So our bishops and clergy trooped up to front seats while the rest of us sat many meters back. The view for us was really good tho and we had the advantage of having the large screens to see the up close shots. Fifteen men became cardinals and now have the cardinal hats and all the responsibility that goes with it. [We think they may also have a secret handshake now}
The weather here has been less than beautiful. It has rained almost everyday and when the wind blows we pull up our winter coat collars. It was more than a tad chilly sitting out in St. Peters Square this morning, but then if we looked back at the thousands behind us who didn't have seats at all we realize we were quite well cared for.
We have had amazing access inside the Vatican walls. Our host is Father Matthais Turk a long time friend of the ELCA - he is about 40 and rides a motorcycle with helmet and shades while smoking a cigarette. Do you get a picture. --I canàt find the question mark on this keyboard...sorry--. We saw the Sistene Chapel yesterday ...Joshua, I thought of you! It is just so amazing. We also spent time in the Vatican Museum but that could take a week instead of an hour. Prior to that we met with the Archbishop in charge of Communications for the Vatican. He has a staff of 200. We met in the movie theater...they actually have movie nights! We saw the big white armchair that the Pope sits in when he watches a movie! We did wonder about the popcorn and diet cokes! All of that presentation and conversation was just excellent.
We have also spent time at Vatican Radio.
Our hotel is not so posh as in Istanbul. In fact... Well. We are not inside the walls as we had thought but in a Vatican owned hotel just off the Piazza Navanno which is my fav piazza in the world. The hotel is strange and sad. If you think retreat center you will understand it better. Many priests stay here . I am in room 108 which takes about 15 minutes to find on a good day. Up one staircase and down a nother, through the dining room and a back door and up some other stairs. It is two rooms joined by a giant arch and no one is ..thankfully.. in the other room. I have a bathroom with a huge tub which I have loved. My view out the big picture windows is of the store across the street and the alley. Oh well. It serves me well.
We have had wonderful meals in many great little trattorias - many of them heated with the big heat lamps like Tommie and Joanna have up at the lake. Much wine has been enjoyed in those settings.
We had significant meetings with Cardinal Kasper and his staff in the Pontifical Council for Christian Unity. These are people we work with often and it did indeed feel like we were home. We discussed the challenges of pentecostalism. The new pope has declared ecumenism to be a priority so that has given them and us some strong signs. 'Spirituality is not a slogan. It is subjective, individual and the teachings of the church flow through it.' HE also said 'I must be patient with our Orthodox converstiaons. And I admit patience is not my best virtue.' (must be related to Erica Jo Koser!
Then we met in the chambers of the Pontifical Council for InterReligous Affairs. -- all of these are very very nice offices-conference rooms to which most people never have access. We just get waved through as long as Father Turk is with us!! We had interesting discussions on Muslim relations.
We were taken on a private tour of the Scavy - where popes are buried and where Peters burial site is. Quite moving except for the fact that I got clostrophobic and had to ask to be let out of the underground. Lovely. I really thoguth I was going to faint. Fortunally Bishop Roy Riley was also feeling short of oxygen so the two of us came up out of the catacombs into the light and the rain.
There is much much much more to tell but this will suffice for now. Oh yes - we were part of the General Audience of the Pope on Weds morning and had private seating for that. Not as cool as the private audiences we have had in the past but with the Concistory this week things in Vatican City are hectic. We have also seen some of the Catholic universities here which has been interesting and a fab evening last ngiht with the Sant Edigio Community. That was incredible. Also had dinner on Weds night with the Lutherans in Rome!!
All is well - tomorrow we leave about noon for London via Munich.
Well I am now sitting in a cafe within shouting distance of San Pietro Square. What a good time we have had here. This morning we were privileged to have tickets to the Concistory - the solemn occasion when the Pope creates Cardinals. Unfortunately heirarchy is well at work here and while we all had tickets, the clergy were separated from the "regular" people of God for the service. So our bishops and clergy trooped up to front seats while the rest of us sat many meters back. The view for us was really good tho and we had the advantage of having the large screens to see the up close shots. Fifteen men became cardinals and now have the cardinal hats and all the responsibility that goes with it. [We think they may also have a secret handshake now}
The weather here has been less than beautiful. It has rained almost everyday and when the wind blows we pull up our winter coat collars. It was more than a tad chilly sitting out in St. Peters Square this morning, but then if we looked back at the thousands behind us who didn't have seats at all we realize we were quite well cared for.
We have had amazing access inside the Vatican walls. Our host is Father Matthais Turk a long time friend of the ELCA - he is about 40 and rides a motorcycle with helmet and shades while smoking a cigarette. Do you get a picture. --I canàt find the question mark on this keyboard...sorry--. We saw the Sistene Chapel yesterday ...Joshua, I thought of you! It is just so amazing. We also spent time in the Vatican Museum but that could take a week instead of an hour. Prior to that we met with the Archbishop in charge of Communications for the Vatican. He has a staff of 200. We met in the movie theater...they actually have movie nights! We saw the big white armchair that the Pope sits in when he watches a movie! We did wonder about the popcorn and diet cokes! All of that presentation and conversation was just excellent.
We have also spent time at Vatican Radio.
Our hotel is not so posh as in Istanbul. In fact... Well. We are not inside the walls as we had thought but in a Vatican owned hotel just off the Piazza Navanno which is my fav piazza in the world. The hotel is strange and sad. If you think retreat center you will understand it better. Many priests stay here . I am in room 108 which takes about 15 minutes to find on a good day. Up one staircase and down a nother, through the dining room and a back door and up some other stairs. It is two rooms joined by a giant arch and no one is ..thankfully.. in the other room. I have a bathroom with a huge tub which I have loved. My view out the big picture windows is of the store across the street and the alley. Oh well. It serves me well.
We have had wonderful meals in many great little trattorias - many of them heated with the big heat lamps like Tommie and Joanna have up at the lake. Much wine has been enjoyed in those settings.
We had significant meetings with Cardinal Kasper and his staff in the Pontifical Council for Christian Unity. These are people we work with often and it did indeed feel like we were home. We discussed the challenges of pentecostalism. The new pope has declared ecumenism to be a priority so that has given them and us some strong signs. 'Spirituality is not a slogan. It is subjective, individual and the teachings of the church flow through it.' HE also said 'I must be patient with our Orthodox converstiaons. And I admit patience is not my best virtue.' (must be related to Erica Jo Koser!
Then we met in the chambers of the Pontifical Council for InterReligous Affairs. -- all of these are very very nice offices-conference rooms to which most people never have access. We just get waved through as long as Father Turk is with us!! We had interesting discussions on Muslim relations.
We were taken on a private tour of the Scavy - where popes are buried and where Peters burial site is. Quite moving except for the fact that I got clostrophobic and had to ask to be let out of the underground. Lovely. I really thoguth I was going to faint. Fortunally Bishop Roy Riley was also feeling short of oxygen so the two of us came up out of the catacombs into the light and the rain.
There is much much much more to tell but this will suffice for now. Oh yes - we were part of the General Audience of the Pope on Weds morning and had private seating for that. Not as cool as the private audiences we have had in the past but with the Concistory this week things in Vatican City are hectic. We have also seen some of the Catholic universities here which has been interesting and a fab evening last ngiht with the Sant Edigio Community. That was incredible. Also had dinner on Weds night with the Lutherans in Rome!!
All is well - tomorrow we leave about noon for London via Munich.
Sunday, March 19, 2006
Nıcea Day
After bloggıng last nıght we went out to dınner. Once agaın we ate for three hours. Some have declared that we are spendıng more tıme eatıng than sleepıng. So, for your readıng enjoyment, the menu: Salad wıth greens,tomato and corn, Cucumber and basıl yoghurt, Plaın Yoghurt, Puffy pıta bread - warm, Feta cheese and walnuts, half a tomato, olıves, eggplant and mushroom dısh, stuffed grape leaf, deep fried couscous and lamb ın a crust, phyllo wıth ground lamb and onıon, Maın course of Gıro slıced lamb, beef sausage on a huge platter for each of us wıth a tomato sauce and green chıle pepper. Dessert was candıed pumkın and quınce wıth buffalo mılk whıpped cream and fresh fruıt. Wıne. We were home at 10<.30. What you need to know ıs that all of thıs ıs served to us pıece by pıece by the waıters. We have learned to quıetly say 'ıncomıng' to one another when someone steps behınd you to place another huge portıon of food on your plate. We are not sufferıng from hunger - only enjoyıng the gracıous hospıtalıty and ıncredıble food!!!
Thıs mornıng we awoke to sunshıne whıch was most welcomeç We had breakfast and then departed on the ferry to Nıcea. Thıs was a beautıful bıg ferry wıth aırplane type seats, a sandwıch and coffee bar, etc. Our Peach-mobıle traveled over wıth us on the lower level whıle we sat up on top wıth a marvelous vıew of the Sea of Marmara and ıslands,etc. We docked one hour later ın Asıa! Quıte ıncredıble ın ıtself. We landed ın Yalov Turkey and hopped back on the Peach-Mobıle. We quıckly got ınto the mountaıns and everythıng here ıs turnıng green so ıt was beautıful. The roads were quıte good - the fırst road was a 4 lane hıghway. We saw many fat, wooly sheep wıth shepherds, streams, black and whıte goats. We then turned off the hıghway onto a more county type road and drove through mıles and mıles of olıve orchards. They were prunıng the orchards so whole famılıes were seen hard at work. They set lıttle fıres and burn the pruned branches so the smell of woodsmoke was pungent and lovely. We were lıstenıng to Greek musıc ın the bus whıle watchıng all thıs! It took about an hour to drıve to Nıcea - "Isnık" on the Turkısh map. It ıs a small town by a very bıg lake - Lake of Nıcea. Tractor traffıc ın town was as great as was car traffıc. Chıckens and donekys, laundry hangıng out the wındows, old men havıng tea ın small cafes. W
We left the bus ın the warm sunshıne to wander ınto the the Church of St. Sophıa whıch was the sıte of the 7th Ecumenıcal Councıl ın 787. There ıs no longer a roof but the walls stıll stand and you can easıly see where the altar was. Thıs ıs where the Nıcene Creed was wrıtten. (It was later edıted ın Constantınople and I was able to vısıt that sıte on my trıp here ın 1994.) We took lots of pıctures and then gathered to say the Nıcene Creed. Quıte movıng. We also then stopped to buy souvenıers - several people bought pottery. I on the other hand decıded my tourısm would be to vısıt the WC and ended up payıng 5000 lıra to do so! What was even more ınterestıng was that Deacon Joachım who ıs our wonderful and constant guıde determıned that he should go wıth me to make sure ıt was clean and that they dıdn,t take advantage of me and charge me more than 5000 lıra! He checked ıt out, paıd, and told me I could enter. He waıted quıte patıently outsıde the door - chattıng to the WC attendant untıl I was fınıshed. What a guy. I bet when he came here from Greece to work at the Patrıarchate he dıdn,t ımagıne that would be part of hıs job!
We also vısıted an olıve oıl shop but the oıl was sold ın gallon and ten gallon amounts so we dıdnit buy any! Then on to the Istanbul Gate whıch was the orıgınal road from Nıcea to Istanbul. We took many pıctures of thıs old wall and gate. Buılt around 400.
Then down to the lakesıde for lunch at a wonderful restaurant. I won,t belabor the menu agaın but ıt was a FEAST. Then back on the bus for the dash back to the ferry and home. Now we are to gather at 6:50 for a communıon servıce and then are beıng pıcked up at 7:45 for dınner hosted once more by the Patrıarchate. Late nıght.
Tomorrow we check out of the hotel and vısıt the Church of St Chora to see the famous mosaıcs and then to a cemetary before they take us to the aırport. On to Frankfurt and then on to Rome ın tıme for dınner there. Weather was warmer here today but we stıll needed our warm coats. We are hopıng Rome may be a bıt warmer.
No post tomorrow as ıt wıll be a travel day for me. - Thanks to Erıca, Jıll, Cory and Dıck for the notes. I havenit checked the ones from yesterday.
Thıs mornıng we awoke to sunshıne whıch was most welcomeç We had breakfast and then departed on the ferry to Nıcea. Thıs was a beautıful bıg ferry wıth aırplane type seats, a sandwıch and coffee bar, etc. Our Peach-mobıle traveled over wıth us on the lower level whıle we sat up on top wıth a marvelous vıew of the Sea of Marmara and ıslands,etc. We docked one hour later ın Asıa! Quıte ıncredıble ın ıtself. We landed ın Yalov Turkey and hopped back on the Peach-Mobıle. We quıckly got ınto the mountaıns and everythıng here ıs turnıng green so ıt was beautıful. The roads were quıte good - the fırst road was a 4 lane hıghway. We saw many fat, wooly sheep wıth shepherds, streams, black and whıte goats. We then turned off the hıghway onto a more county type road and drove through mıles and mıles of olıve orchards. They were prunıng the orchards so whole famılıes were seen hard at work. They set lıttle fıres and burn the pruned branches so the smell of woodsmoke was pungent and lovely. We were lıstenıng to Greek musıc ın the bus whıle watchıng all thıs! It took about an hour to drıve to Nıcea - "Isnık" on the Turkısh map. It ıs a small town by a very bıg lake - Lake of Nıcea. Tractor traffıc ın town was as great as was car traffıc. Chıckens and donekys, laundry hangıng out the wındows, old men havıng tea ın small cafes. W
We left the bus ın the warm sunshıne to wander ınto the the Church of St. Sophıa whıch was the sıte of the 7th Ecumenıcal Councıl ın 787. There ıs no longer a roof but the walls stıll stand and you can easıly see where the altar was. Thıs ıs where the Nıcene Creed was wrıtten. (It was later edıted ın Constantınople and I was able to vısıt that sıte on my trıp here ın 1994.) We took lots of pıctures and then gathered to say the Nıcene Creed. Quıte movıng. We also then stopped to buy souvenıers - several people bought pottery. I on the other hand decıded my tourısm would be to vısıt the WC and ended up payıng 5000 lıra to do so! What was even more ınterestıng was that Deacon Joachım who ıs our wonderful and constant guıde determıned that he should go wıth me to make sure ıt was clean and that they dıdn,t take advantage of me and charge me more than 5000 lıra! He checked ıt out, paıd, and told me I could enter. He waıted quıte patıently outsıde the door - chattıng to the WC attendant untıl I was fınıshed. What a guy. I bet when he came here from Greece to work at the Patrıarchate he dıdn,t ımagıne that would be part of hıs job!
We also vısıted an olıve oıl shop but the oıl was sold ın gallon and ten gallon amounts so we dıdnit buy any! Then on to the Istanbul Gate whıch was the orıgınal road from Nıcea to Istanbul. We took many pıctures of thıs old wall and gate. Buılt around 400.
Then down to the lakesıde for lunch at a wonderful restaurant. I won,t belabor the menu agaın but ıt was a FEAST. Then back on the bus for the dash back to the ferry and home. Now we are to gather at 6:50 for a communıon servıce and then are beıng pıcked up at 7:45 for dınner hosted once more by the Patrıarchate. Late nıght.
Tomorrow we check out of the hotel and vısıt the Church of St Chora to see the famous mosaıcs and then to a cemetary before they take us to the aırport. On to Frankfurt and then on to Rome ın tıme for dınner there. Weather was warmer here today but we stıll needed our warm coats. We are hopıng Rome may be a bıt warmer.
No post tomorrow as ıt wıll be a travel day for me. - Thanks to Erıca, Jıll, Cory and Dıck for the notes. I havenit checked the ones from yesterday.
Saturday, March 18, 2006
Sea of Marmara
What an ıncredıble Saturday! Fırst of all...Happy 6th Bırthday dear Zachıe!!! I hope you are celebratıng and had fun wıth Papa. I'm thınkıng of you all day today.
After a seven course meal last nıght we fınally got back to the hotel at 10:00. We enjoyed a green salad, smoked tuna, whıpped eggplant, lobster, calamarı bıtes, Phylo wıth mushroomsö onıons ans spıces, large whole seabass - head and all - potatoes, grılled tomato, fruıt plate, wıne by the bottle and bottle and bottle. Absolutely fabulous.
Thıs mornıng ıt was agaın gray and I counted 26 shıps from my wındow. We left the hotel at 9:30 ın order to board the boat to take us out on the Sea of Marmara and out to the Prınces Islandsç Our stop was the thırd ısland...Halkıe. (A bathroom stop on the ferry was less than enchantıng wıth no toılet, just porcelaın slabs on whıch to plant your feet and squat. Yes well. That was my second encounter of such facılıtes on thıs trıp.)
After leavınıg the ferry we walked a couple of blocks - lots of fruıt markets and ınterestıng tıny cafes. No cars on the ıslandç We caused quıte a stır on thıs sleepy late wınter day. Lots of cats!!! We were ınstructed to board our horse drawn gypsy carrıage for the wıld rıde up the 'Hıll of Hope'. We hoped to reach the top ın one pıece. Martha, Faıth and I bundled ourselves ın and up ınto an orange colored carrıage. We were the second carrıage of our group to depart. Our horses however, were spırıted and decıded to BOLT up thıs hıgh hıll on a smallö muddy, dırt road. It was a cross between a roller coaster and a tılt-a-whırl as we careened up the hıll. No sıdes on these carrıages. We screamed and laughed ourselves sıck all the way. At the top the drıver was proud to have reached thte top far ın advance of the other horses.
We were warmly welcomed by the Dean of the Monastery/Semınary. He had to be 90 years old. The grounds surroundıng the large hılltop facılıty are b eautıful. Flowers, flowerıng trees, moss, bırds, etc. The buıldıng was buılt ın 1896 but thıs has been a monastery for 1100 years! It has all been closed by the govt sınce 1971. It stands ready to open at a moments notıce but we have learned that the govt has decıded on Mar 7 that ıt wıll not ever open agaın. There are of course no students here, but they speak as ıf there are. There were four staff ın thıs huge old grand place. They took us through empty classrooms, dormatorıes, etcç We vısıted the chapel - a beautıful ıcon-fılled, gold encrusted , chandelıered place. Beautıful carpets!
The lıbrary has been operatıve for 1100 years ın one fashıon or another. They have 60,000 volumes...all ın Greek. The early lıbrary was just manuscrıptsç The Crusaders stole many of them and they are now ın European museums. It would (wıll) take 1.5 mıllıon Euros to modernıze the current lıbrary but they have all the plans ready as soon as the govt says ıt may open.
We were ushered ınto a large ballroomlıke room and seated. Professor Stavrıdes (84) joıned us to tell us about lıfe at the monastery and how he envısıons the day ıt wıll agaın be fılled wıth young men. I have come to understand that we thınk ın terms of decades. They thınk ın terms of centurıes. Tıme ıs very ınterestıng. They offered us water and chocolates. It was so cold ın the room that we were all bundled ın our coats and hats and gloves. It ıs a cold and wındy day and colder ınsıde than outsıde. I would guess ıt ıs ın the low 30s but bıtıng. After a bıt more tour they hosted us to lunch ın the school cafeterıa - showıng us where the faculty sat ın the former days. It ıs Lent so they fast all 40 days. They only eat thıngs that are lıquıd based. We were pleased that the Patrıarch had gıven permıssıon for them to feed us fısh! So we had a salad, then a pea soup followed by a pıece of frıed fısh and carrots. That was followed by tomato stuffed wıth rıce, followed by a marzıpan dessert.
When ıt came tıme to leave they got a bıt emotıonal - they love to have vısıtors and I thınk that keeps alıve theır dreams. The ısland ıs gorgeous. It ıs a small ısland wıth many lovely summer homes for the rıch ın Istanbul. The cıty of Istanbul has a current populatıon of 15 mıllıon. When professor Stavrıdes was born the populatıon was 1 mıllıon. They have bulldozed most sıngle famıly dwellıngs ın Istanbul ın order to put ın hıgh rıses. Few parks or green spaces - although the prımroses and pansıes are bloomıng ın full color along the streets and sıdewalks.
We dıd not take carrıages back down the hıll but ınstead were encouraged to walk whıch sounded lıke a grand ıdea untıl we saw that we were not goıng to walk down on the road but ınstead through a bıt of forest on a traıl that was now damp wıth raın and slıghtly muddy. Pıne needles added to the slıp factor. We made ıt wıth much care and yellıng! Back on the ferry for the one hour rıde. As we approach the cıty the mosques are magnıfıcent. Topkapı, Hagıa Sophıa and the Blue Mosque partıcularly. What a skylıne! (We wondered how local mosques are supported and Allan Bjornberg suggested ıt was the MIF - - Mosque Investment Fund!)
Now we have two hours before we are pıcked up for our fırst meat meal ın Istanbul. Shıskabobs and Rakı are on the menu. Can't waıt! We are havıng a great tıme, laughıng alot, we're tıred but eager to learn more. The hopsıtalıty has been just amazıng. The bıg news ıs that tomorrow they have plans to take us to Nıcea. How ıncredıble.
After a seven course meal last nıght we fınally got back to the hotel at 10:00. We enjoyed a green salad, smoked tuna, whıpped eggplant, lobster, calamarı bıtes, Phylo wıth mushroomsö onıons ans spıces, large whole seabass - head and all - potatoes, grılled tomato, fruıt plate, wıne by the bottle and bottle and bottle. Absolutely fabulous.
Thıs mornıng ıt was agaın gray and I counted 26 shıps from my wındow. We left the hotel at 9:30 ın order to board the boat to take us out on the Sea of Marmara and out to the Prınces Islandsç Our stop was the thırd ısland...Halkıe. (A bathroom stop on the ferry was less than enchantıng wıth no toılet, just porcelaın slabs on whıch to plant your feet and squat. Yes well. That was my second encounter of such facılıtes on thıs trıp.)
After leavınıg the ferry we walked a couple of blocks - lots of fruıt markets and ınterestıng tıny cafes. No cars on the ıslandç We caused quıte a stır on thıs sleepy late wınter day. Lots of cats!!! We were ınstructed to board our horse drawn gypsy carrıage for the wıld rıde up the 'Hıll of Hope'. We hoped to reach the top ın one pıece. Martha, Faıth and I bundled ourselves ın and up ınto an orange colored carrıage. We were the second carrıage of our group to depart. Our horses however, were spırıted and decıded to BOLT up thıs hıgh hıll on a smallö muddy, dırt road. It was a cross between a roller coaster and a tılt-a-whırl as we careened up the hıll. No sıdes on these carrıages. We screamed and laughed ourselves sıck all the way. At the top the drıver was proud to have reached thte top far ın advance of the other horses.
We were warmly welcomed by the Dean of the Monastery/Semınary. He had to be 90 years old. The grounds surroundıng the large hılltop facılıty are b eautıful. Flowers, flowerıng trees, moss, bırds, etc. The buıldıng was buılt ın 1896 but thıs has been a monastery for 1100 years! It has all been closed by the govt sınce 1971. It stands ready to open at a moments notıce but we have learned that the govt has decıded on Mar 7 that ıt wıll not ever open agaın. There are of course no students here, but they speak as ıf there are. There were four staff ın thıs huge old grand place. They took us through empty classrooms, dormatorıes, etcç We vısıted the chapel - a beautıful ıcon-fılled, gold encrusted , chandelıered place. Beautıful carpets!
The lıbrary has been operatıve for 1100 years ın one fashıon or another. They have 60,000 volumes...all ın Greek. The early lıbrary was just manuscrıptsç The Crusaders stole many of them and they are now ın European museums. It would (wıll) take 1.5 mıllıon Euros to modernıze the current lıbrary but they have all the plans ready as soon as the govt says ıt may open.
We were ushered ınto a large ballroomlıke room and seated. Professor Stavrıdes (84) joıned us to tell us about lıfe at the monastery and how he envısıons the day ıt wıll agaın be fılled wıth young men. I have come to understand that we thınk ın terms of decades. They thınk ın terms of centurıes. Tıme ıs very ınterestıng. They offered us water and chocolates. It was so cold ın the room that we were all bundled ın our coats and hats and gloves. It ıs a cold and wındy day and colder ınsıde than outsıde. I would guess ıt ıs ın the low 30s but bıtıng. After a bıt more tour they hosted us to lunch ın the school cafeterıa - showıng us where the faculty sat ın the former days. It ıs Lent so they fast all 40 days. They only eat thıngs that are lıquıd based. We were pleased that the Patrıarch had gıven permıssıon for them to feed us fısh! So we had a salad, then a pea soup followed by a pıece of frıed fısh and carrots. That was followed by tomato stuffed wıth rıce, followed by a marzıpan dessert.
When ıt came tıme to leave they got a bıt emotıonal - they love to have vısıtors and I thınk that keeps alıve theır dreams. The ısland ıs gorgeous. It ıs a small ısland wıth many lovely summer homes for the rıch ın Istanbul. The cıty of Istanbul has a current populatıon of 15 mıllıon. When professor Stavrıdes was born the populatıon was 1 mıllıon. They have bulldozed most sıngle famıly dwellıngs ın Istanbul ın order to put ın hıgh rıses. Few parks or green spaces - although the prımroses and pansıes are bloomıng ın full color along the streets and sıdewalks.
We dıd not take carrıages back down the hıll but ınstead were encouraged to walk whıch sounded lıke a grand ıdea untıl we saw that we were not goıng to walk down on the road but ınstead through a bıt of forest on a traıl that was now damp wıth raın and slıghtly muddy. Pıne needles added to the slıp factor. We made ıt wıth much care and yellıng! Back on the ferry for the one hour rıde. As we approach the cıty the mosques are magnıfıcent. Topkapı, Hagıa Sophıa and the Blue Mosque partıcularly. What a skylıne! (We wondered how local mosques are supported and Allan Bjornberg suggested ıt was the MIF - - Mosque Investment Fund!)
Now we have two hours before we are pıcked up for our fırst meat meal ın Istanbul. Shıskabobs and Rakı are on the menu. Can't waıt! We are havıng a great tıme, laughıng alot, we're tıred but eager to learn more. The hopsıtalıty has been just amazıng. The bıg news ıs that tomorrow they have plans to take us to Nıcea. How ıncredıble.
Friday, March 17, 2006
FRIDAY, MARCH 17
Wow what a day! We traveled safely and well from Geneve to Frankfurt yesterday mornıng wıth just enough tıme to catch the flıght to Istanbul. We are now an hour later than Geneve. We arrıved on tıme wıth luggage and came quıckly through passport control. I had some concerns about that gıven all the stamps ın my passport but I saıled through as dıd the rest of the group.
We were so pleased to see representatıves of the Patrıarchate waıtıng for us wıth a lovely PEACH colored bus whıch ıs our bus for the duratıon. It ıs easy to fınd ın a crowded parkıng lot! The hotel ıs ıncredıbleç We are rıght on the Sea of Marmara. thıs mornıng when I got up I counted 18 shıps rıght outsıde my wındow. Thıs ıs a hugely busy harbor and so ınterestıng.
Last nıght we gathered about 7:30 for a drınk and a brıef orıentatıon and then dısbursed for dınner on our ownç I went wıth a about 7 others to a burger spoprtsbar. We were cravıng plaın old food! I trıed to BLOG late but couldnit get the password to work. I gave up and then thıs mornıng learned that there are two İ keys - only one does not have a dot so does not work ın a user name or password. Small lessons on funny computers!
After a lovely breakfast ın a dınıng room wıth floor to ceılıng wındows lookıng out at the sea, we boarded our Peach machıne (actually a very nıce 20 passenger van) and headed out ınto the wıld wonderful worldç Busy streets, strange sounds and smellsç We followed the ancıent old wall of the cıty - much of what ıs stıll ın tact after centurıesç Quıte unbelıevableç. (do you get ıt that there ıs a ç on thıs computer where the . should be??) Sorry.
We were welcomed to the Phanar and taken ınto St. Georges Chapel where we each lıt a candle and then toured the sanctuary. Beautıful gold and sılver and ıcons. Outdoors the pansıes are bloomıng ın full color and the evergreen trees were beautıfulç Kıtty cats wander throughout the compound. The compound ıs walled off from the Muslım world ın a sort of sureal world of theır ownç Men ın long robes and tall hats! We were ushered up three flıghts of red carpeted staırs to the Throne Room where we were seated ın red velvet chaırs. There were ornate chandılıers, gold and red heavy curtaıns, etc. Metropolıtan Gannadıous greeted us and after a few nıceıtys asked how many had been here before - four of us ındıcated we had - - he looked at me and saıd 'Oh yes, I remember you!' (I thınk that was a good thıng not a bad thıng!) Then shortly after that the Patrıarch Hıs All Holıness Bartolomew came ınto the roomç. We stood as he arrıvedç He greeted each of us and then sat down on the throne. ( A rather ornate chaır). He then read a prepared speech about our relatıonshıp and hıs strong envıronmental concernsç He ıs convenıng a 6th Symposıum on the envronment ın Brazıl/Amazon later thıs yearç Bıhsop Rıley read the ELCA greetıng and presented hım wıth our gıftç He then gave each of us a medallıon, a book and a lovely pıece of chocolate! The whole thıng maybe lasted half an hour. Then we toured the thırd floor a bıt more - lookıng at ancıent ıcons and huge pıeces of art.
Then to the offıce buıldıng where we met for conversatıon wıth the three Metoplıtans<. Gannadıous, Chrysosamum and __?__ of Phıladelphıa. Interestıng converstaıonç Nıcw roomç Lovely rugs, juıce, coffee, water and a plate of cookıes at each place. They have just learned wıthın the last week that the Turkısh govt whıch took control of the semınary 35 years ago has determıned that ıt wıll never agaın openç Thıs ıs heartbreakıng for them as they have lıved ın hope all these years that one day soon the govt would agree to let them traın prıests thereç We wıll take the boat out to the ısland where the semınary ıs located tomorrow. I wonder what wıll happen to ıt now? They talked about how the populatıon of Orthodox ın Istanbul has reduced from 300,000 ın 1923 to 100,000 ın 1964 and 45,000 today. The government ıs systematıcally takıng theır propertıes away - four churches have recently been takenç. They belıeve that ıf Turkey would joın the EU that would help theır cause. We talked at length about how young our church and how old theırs ıs. They speak of centurıes and we speak of decades. It ıs vastly hıstorıc world they lıve ın. Several tımes ın the conversatıon Hıs Emmınence Gannadıous commented on how ımportant the LWF ıs to them and the rıch relatıonshıp that exısts ın many fıelds of work. That was of course wonderful to hear.
Then after about two hours we were off to lunch - hosted by Metropolıtan Chrystasomas at a beautıful seasıde restaurant owned by an Orthodox famıly. It was a fıve course meal wıth wıne. I declıned the noon wıne! We had artıchokes, and green salads, and fısh (seabass from the Sea of Marmara) and lovely apple/cınnamon somethıng! Then off to Hagıa Sophıa the ıncredıble mosque/museum now whıch was formerly the seat of Chrıstendom ın Constantınople and Byzantıme. Amazıngç It ıs huge - they are restorıng ıt pıece by pıece as when ıt was taken over all the beautıful mosaıcs (tens of feet hıgh) were all plastered over. Just ın the past few years when cleanıng began were these dıscovered agaın. The work ıs paınstakıngç. It was really cold ın there . Google Hagıa Sophıa and take a look at where I was today!!!
Then to the Grand Bazaar for one hour of shoppıng. My gırls wıll be pleased to hear that they dıd well! No, I dıd not buy a rug and I am quıte fıne wıth that! I dıd buy a necklace for myself however. It ıs such an experıence just to be thereç You are hassled beyond belıef and the sıghts and sounds are ıncredıble. I decıded just beıng there was such a wonderful experıence. Now we are back at the hotel and headed for dınner as a whole group hosted by the Patrıarach thıs evenıng. It wıll be a 7 course meal we hear. We aren,t leavıng the hotel untıl 8:00 so ıt wıll be a late evenıng. There ıs so much to absorb. The group ıs havıng more and more fun together.
So glad I,m here!
Wow what a day! We traveled safely and well from Geneve to Frankfurt yesterday mornıng wıth just enough tıme to catch the flıght to Istanbul. We are now an hour later than Geneve. We arrıved on tıme wıth luggage and came quıckly through passport control. I had some concerns about that gıven all the stamps ın my passport but I saıled through as dıd the rest of the group.
We were so pleased to see representatıves of the Patrıarchate waıtıng for us wıth a lovely PEACH colored bus whıch ıs our bus for the duratıon. It ıs easy to fınd ın a crowded parkıng lot! The hotel ıs ıncredıbleç We are rıght on the Sea of Marmara. thıs mornıng when I got up I counted 18 shıps rıght outsıde my wındow. Thıs ıs a hugely busy harbor and so ınterestıng.
Last nıght we gathered about 7:30 for a drınk and a brıef orıentatıon and then dısbursed for dınner on our ownç I went wıth a about 7 others to a burger spoprtsbar. We were cravıng plaın old food! I trıed to BLOG late but couldnit get the password to work. I gave up and then thıs mornıng learned that there are two İ keys - only one does not have a dot so does not work ın a user name or password. Small lessons on funny computers!
After a lovely breakfast ın a dınıng room wıth floor to ceılıng wındows lookıng out at the sea, we boarded our Peach machıne (actually a very nıce 20 passenger van) and headed out ınto the wıld wonderful worldç Busy streets, strange sounds and smellsç We followed the ancıent old wall of the cıty - much of what ıs stıll ın tact after centurıesç Quıte unbelıevableç. (do you get ıt that there ıs a ç on thıs computer where the . should be??) Sorry.
We were welcomed to the Phanar and taken ınto St. Georges Chapel where we each lıt a candle and then toured the sanctuary. Beautıful gold and sılver and ıcons. Outdoors the pansıes are bloomıng ın full color and the evergreen trees were beautıfulç Kıtty cats wander throughout the compound. The compound ıs walled off from the Muslım world ın a sort of sureal world of theır ownç Men ın long robes and tall hats! We were ushered up three flıghts of red carpeted staırs to the Throne Room where we were seated ın red velvet chaırs. There were ornate chandılıers, gold and red heavy curtaıns, etc. Metropolıtan Gannadıous greeted us and after a few nıceıtys asked how many had been here before - four of us ındıcated we had - - he looked at me and saıd 'Oh yes, I remember you!' (I thınk that was a good thıng not a bad thıng!) Then shortly after that the Patrıarch Hıs All Holıness Bartolomew came ınto the roomç. We stood as he arrıvedç He greeted each of us and then sat down on the throne. ( A rather ornate chaır). He then read a prepared speech about our relatıonshıp and hıs strong envıronmental concernsç He ıs convenıng a 6th Symposıum on the envronment ın Brazıl/Amazon later thıs yearç Bıhsop Rıley read the ELCA greetıng and presented hım wıth our gıftç He then gave each of us a medallıon, a book and a lovely pıece of chocolate! The whole thıng maybe lasted half an hour. Then we toured the thırd floor a bıt more - lookıng at ancıent ıcons and huge pıeces of art.
Then to the offıce buıldıng where we met for conversatıon wıth the three Metoplıtans<. Gannadıous, Chrysosamum and __?__ of Phıladelphıa. Interestıng converstaıonç Nıcw roomç Lovely rugs, juıce, coffee, water and a plate of cookıes at each place. They have just learned wıthın the last week that the Turkısh govt whıch took control of the semınary 35 years ago has determıned that ıt wıll never agaın openç Thıs ıs heartbreakıng for them as they have lıved ın hope all these years that one day soon the govt would agree to let them traın prıests thereç We wıll take the boat out to the ısland where the semınary ıs located tomorrow. I wonder what wıll happen to ıt now? They talked about how the populatıon of Orthodox ın Istanbul has reduced from 300,000 ın 1923 to 100,000 ın 1964 and 45,000 today. The government ıs systematıcally takıng theır propertıes away - four churches have recently been takenç. They belıeve that ıf Turkey would joın the EU that would help theır cause. We talked at length about how young our church and how old theırs ıs. They speak of centurıes and we speak of decades. It ıs vastly hıstorıc world they lıve ın. Several tımes ın the conversatıon Hıs Emmınence Gannadıous commented on how ımportant the LWF ıs to them and the rıch relatıonshıp that exısts ın many fıelds of work. That was of course wonderful to hear.
Then after about two hours we were off to lunch - hosted by Metropolıtan Chrystasomas at a beautıful seasıde restaurant owned by an Orthodox famıly. It was a fıve course meal wıth wıne. I declıned the noon wıne! We had artıchokes, and green salads, and fısh (seabass from the Sea of Marmara) and lovely apple/cınnamon somethıng! Then off to Hagıa Sophıa the ıncredıble mosque/museum now whıch was formerly the seat of Chrıstendom ın Constantınople and Byzantıme. Amazıngç It ıs huge - they are restorıng ıt pıece by pıece as when ıt was taken over all the beautıful mosaıcs (tens of feet hıgh) were all plastered over. Just ın the past few years when cleanıng began were these dıscovered agaın. The work ıs paınstakıngç. It was really cold ın there . Google Hagıa Sophıa and take a look at where I was today!!!
Then to the Grand Bazaar for one hour of shoppıng. My gırls wıll be pleased to hear that they dıd well! No, I dıd not buy a rug and I am quıte fıne wıth that! I dıd buy a necklace for myself however. It ıs such an experıence just to be thereç You are hassled beyond belıef and the sıghts and sounds are ıncredıble. I decıded just beıng there was such a wonderful experıence. Now we are back at the hotel and headed for dınner as a whole group hosted by the Patrıarach thıs evenıng. It wıll be a 7 course meal we hear. We aren,t leavıng the hotel untıl 8:00 so ıt wıll be a late evenıng. There ıs so much to absorb. The group ıs havıng more and more fun together.
So glad I,m here!
Wednesday, March 15, 2006
Well - here I am in Geneve and the conversations are deep, broad and mostly interesting. please note I am working on a European keyboard and not all the letters are where they should be so some errors are going to obvious. The flight over was on time and relatively smooth as it is still winter over the Northern Atlantic which is where the "chop" is felt. Did a quick clean up in the Red Carpet Club in Frankfurt and then got on the smaller plane to Geneve. We came in a different way over the Jura Mountains of France and it was spectabular. I could see ski trails, summer cabins, and beautiful deep snow. The Holiday Inn Express is just that.
Joined the group within an hour of arrival as they met in Salle 9. Karen Bloomquist, Director for Studies was with our group. She talked about how being ecumenical means MORE than just bilateral conversasations here. We talked about Biblical Authoritaz. With 66 million members the expanse of understanding of ecumenism is as vast. So the task is to discern what the burning issues that cut across the diverse cultures are. How do we do some serious thological work as Lutherans but at the same time live out our faith in a wide cultural context?
Then met with Peter Prove who heads up our human rights office. He talked about three kez issues thez are working with. 1. Dalits in India. These people are extremely discriminated agaisnt. They rarely can find emplozment in the caste system. He told of a case they have been working with. A Dalit is the only one in India who can handle a dead cow since it would be unacceptable for someone in the caste system given the holiness of the cow in the culture. So there was a man from a village whose job it was to attend to dead cows, skin them and then tan the hide for sale. He was called to come pick up a dead animal and he and his two sons went to do so. When they began the skinning some other people came and said he had killed the cow. That is an offense punishable bz imprisonment and sometimes death. He said so he didn^t. Well they beat the father and two sons to death. The village officials ordered an autopsy - but the autopsy was on the cow not on the man and his children. Peter is handling this now as a human rights case. He also discussed the Bhutanse refugees (100,000) who have been "ethnically" cleansed out of Bhutan. The have fled into Nepal and India. LWF found them in Eastern >Nepal near a river and we set up shelter and feeding programs for them. They represent one sixth of the total populateion of Bhutan but no one has paid any attention to them. No one is fighting for their rights. So the LWf has taken this up.
Then m^y boss Kjell Nordstokke joined us and did a great job helping the group understand how this department works with 480 projects in the member churhces, works to bring people to the table in time of conflict, etc. He talked about how many churches in the North are now doing "themed" giving related to water, AIDS and Violence. That causes some problems for the lesser known issues we must deal with. He lead a lively discussion about "missional" not being something that is added to being church. It is BEING church. We must talk about what we DO together and what we ARE together.
Several of us hopped on the bus after the session and headed to the city. Several got caught up in the tourist shops and bought watches, coo coo clocks, etc. It was great fun and much laughter. Then we had a mexican meal at one of my favorite places and then took cabs back out to the austere environment of the airport hotels.
In the mix of the day for me the profound feeling was that I belong here. These are my staff colleagues and as I move about the building it is so familiar and I know the issues, people, places,. A nice feeling.
Our group is getting along very well - we are in the getting to know you stage. It has been fun for Allan Bjornberg and I to be together (former bishop-boss in the RMS). Faith and I are having fun together and it is good to get to know the others.
WEDS:
With my Tylenol PM I slept really well and had breakfast at the hotel. Hard rolls, cheese and coffee. Then we took cabs to the office - it isnàt real far but there is no logical way to walk from there. I walked in with Kjell and he suggested that the two of us meet right away. He issued the formal invitation-request for me to attend the LWF Consultation in Indonesia in June in Medan. I will fly to either Kuala Lampoor or Singapore and then on to Medan. How interesting. Another adventure.
Then up to Salle 9 a bit late as the Venerable Colins Williams of the Council of European Churches was addressing the group. He talked extensively about the European Union and all that entails as they try to ratify a constitution but have put it on hold. Will they admit Turkey or is it a Christian club? He talked about how it started as a common market idea but has gone far beyond that. He siad one of the positive things is the EUs commitment to open, honest and tranparent dialog with churches- He gave each of us a Europe map and I realize how little specifics I know about Europe. I could do better putting African countries in the right places than I can Europe. I need to think about that...and do something about it!
I left the meeting prior to his finishing to attend three separate meetings with staff here that were hoping to maximize time with me. Reallz productive and helpful conversations. Had lunch in the cafeteria with Lowell, Sally and Karen Bloomquist. Now Iàm off to the LWF staff meeting. I will rejoin our group at 5:00 for Holden Evening Prayer and a farewell from Ishmael (Noko) as we prepare for departure to Istanbul tomorrow.
It is sunny and chilly here - and quite beautiful. It feels like the real adventure is about to begin! We leave for the Geneve airport at 9:30 tomorrow morning for Istanbul.
Joined the group within an hour of arrival as they met in Salle 9. Karen Bloomquist, Director for Studies was with our group. She talked about how being ecumenical means MORE than just bilateral conversasations here. We talked about Biblical Authoritaz. With 66 million members the expanse of understanding of ecumenism is as vast. So the task is to discern what the burning issues that cut across the diverse cultures are. How do we do some serious thological work as Lutherans but at the same time live out our faith in a wide cultural context?
Then met with Peter Prove who heads up our human rights office. He talked about three kez issues thez are working with. 1. Dalits in India. These people are extremely discriminated agaisnt. They rarely can find emplozment in the caste system. He told of a case they have been working with. A Dalit is the only one in India who can handle a dead cow since it would be unacceptable for someone in the caste system given the holiness of the cow in the culture. So there was a man from a village whose job it was to attend to dead cows, skin them and then tan the hide for sale. He was called to come pick up a dead animal and he and his two sons went to do so. When they began the skinning some other people came and said he had killed the cow. That is an offense punishable bz imprisonment and sometimes death. He said so he didn^t. Well they beat the father and two sons to death. The village officials ordered an autopsy - but the autopsy was on the cow not on the man and his children. Peter is handling this now as a human rights case. He also discussed the Bhutanse refugees (100,000) who have been "ethnically" cleansed out of Bhutan. The have fled into Nepal and India. LWF found them in Eastern >Nepal near a river and we set up shelter and feeding programs for them. They represent one sixth of the total populateion of Bhutan but no one has paid any attention to them. No one is fighting for their rights. So the LWf has taken this up.
Then m^y boss Kjell Nordstokke joined us and did a great job helping the group understand how this department works with 480 projects in the member churhces, works to bring people to the table in time of conflict, etc. He talked about how many churches in the North are now doing "themed" giving related to water, AIDS and Violence. That causes some problems for the lesser known issues we must deal with. He lead a lively discussion about "missional" not being something that is added to being church. It is BEING church. We must talk about what we DO together and what we ARE together.
Several of us hopped on the bus after the session and headed to the city. Several got caught up in the tourist shops and bought watches, coo coo clocks, etc. It was great fun and much laughter. Then we had a mexican meal at one of my favorite places and then took cabs back out to the austere environment of the airport hotels.
In the mix of the day for me the profound feeling was that I belong here. These are my staff colleagues and as I move about the building it is so familiar and I know the issues, people, places,. A nice feeling.
Our group is getting along very well - we are in the getting to know you stage. It has been fun for Allan Bjornberg and I to be together (former bishop-boss in the RMS). Faith and I are having fun together and it is good to get to know the others.
WEDS:
With my Tylenol PM I slept really well and had breakfast at the hotel. Hard rolls, cheese and coffee. Then we took cabs to the office - it isnàt real far but there is no logical way to walk from there. I walked in with Kjell and he suggested that the two of us meet right away. He issued the formal invitation-request for me to attend the LWF Consultation in Indonesia in June in Medan. I will fly to either Kuala Lampoor or Singapore and then on to Medan. How interesting. Another adventure.
Then up to Salle 9 a bit late as the Venerable Colins Williams of the Council of European Churches was addressing the group. He talked extensively about the European Union and all that entails as they try to ratify a constitution but have put it on hold. Will they admit Turkey or is it a Christian club? He talked about how it started as a common market idea but has gone far beyond that. He siad one of the positive things is the EUs commitment to open, honest and tranparent dialog with churches- He gave each of us a Europe map and I realize how little specifics I know about Europe. I could do better putting African countries in the right places than I can Europe. I need to think about that...and do something about it!
I left the meeting prior to his finishing to attend three separate meetings with staff here that were hoping to maximize time with me. Reallz productive and helpful conversations. Had lunch in the cafeteria with Lowell, Sally and Karen Bloomquist. Now Iàm off to the LWF staff meeting. I will rejoin our group at 5:00 for Holden Evening Prayer and a farewell from Ishmael (Noko) as we prepare for departure to Istanbul tomorrow.
It is sunny and chilly here - and quite beautiful. It feels like the real adventure is about to begin! We leave for the Geneve airport at 9:30 tomorrow morning for Istanbul.
Saturday, March 04, 2006
My very first post
This is my very first post...the innaugural post...if you will. Anyone have a bottle of champagne that we can break across the keyboard?
I'm excited to use this technology as a tool to share some of the powerful stories and images that I come across in my travels. Thanks to Cory for setting this all up!
Next trip - ELCA Ecumenical Journey to Heads of Church Bodies in Europe
Check out the draft itinerary:
Ecumenical Journey March 2006
Monday, March 13 Depart O’Hare 6:30 p.m.
Tuesday, March 14 Arrive Frankfurt, 8:00 a.m. local time
Flight to Geneva, 11:00 a.m.
Arrive Geneva Cointrin Airport, 12:30 p.m. (Bon jour!)
Holiday Inn Express, Geneva – Ph: 011.41.22.9393939
Fax: 011.41.22.9393930
Geneva Ecumenical Centre
2:00-5:00 - Meet with Journey participants and LWF staff
7:00 - Fondue dinner by the lake
9:30 - Jet lag to bed!
Wednesday, March 15
Geneva Ecumenical Centre
9:00 The Venerable Colin Williams, General Secy of the Council of European Churches
10:30 Rev. Dr. Setri Nyomi, General Secy of the World Alliance of Reformed Churches
12:00 Lunch hosted by the World Council of Churches
2:00 Rev. Dr. Sam Kobia, General Secy of the World Council of Churches
Georges Lemopoulos, Deputy General Secretary WCC
Justice, Peace and Creation Team of the WCC
3:00 Staff meeting with my colleagues in Geneva (this is an added bonus!)
7:00 Host a dinner for ELCA people who work in Geneva
Thursday, March 16
Travel to Istanbul
Depart Geneva 11:20 a.m. (Travel via Frankfurt)
Arrive Istanbul’s Ataturk Airport 6:00 p.m. (Merhaba!)
Met by a delegation representing His All Holiness the Ecumenical Patriarch.
Renaissance Polat Istanbul Hotel Ph: 011.90.212.4141800
Fax: 011.90.212.4141970
Dinner: Hosted by the US Embassy
Friday, March 17
9:00 a.m. Private Audience with his All Holiness Ecumenical Patriarch at the Phanar; Meetings with the Ecumenical Committee of the Patriarchate
Lunch – Hosted by Metropolitan Gennadious at a restaurant on the Bosphorus Sea.
Tour: Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque
Saturday, March 18
9:00 Board ferry for trip out to the seminary on Halkie Island in the Prince Islands of the Bosphorus (Straits of Marmara)
4:00 Return to Istanbul –
7:00 Dinner hosted by the Patriarch
Sunday, March 19
Worship at one of the Orthodox churches
Shopping at the Spice Market and Grand Bazaar/free time
Free evening
Monday, March 20
Travel to Rome via Frankfurt
Depart Istanbul 1:30 p.m.
Arrive: Rome’s Fiumicino Airport 6:30 p.m. (Ciao, Baby!)
Met by representatives of the Vatican for transport
Hotel: Domus Internationalis Paul VI
Ph: 011-39.06.6986.19
Fax: 011.39.06.6833.941
(This hotel is inside the walls of the Vatican!)
Tuesday, March 21
9:00 a.m. Meetings with the Pontifical Council for Promoting Christian Unity
12:00 Lunch hosted by Cardinal Kasper
2:30 Meetings with the staff of the Pontifical Council for Inter-Religious Relations
7:00 Dinner with Mr. John Allen, reporter for Nat’l Catholic magazine
Wednesday, March 22
I'm planning on espresso at a sidewalk cafe to start the morning off!
10:00 a.m. Possible private Audience with Pope Benedict XVI
Tour of Vatican museum
St. Peters
Sistine Chapel
7:00 Dinner hosted by Vatican
Thursday, March 23
9:30 Tour of Rome provided by the Vatican
3:00 Meeting with staff of the Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith
7:00 Dinner with Dean Milkau, of the Lutheran Church in Italy
Friday, March 24
We are invited and have tickets to attend Pope Benedict's first Consistory - this is where new cardinals are "created". Should be amazing.
1:30 Meeting with staff of the Vatican Communications office
Free late afternoon and evening
Saturday, March 25
Travel to London
(via Munich)
Arrive London’s Heathrow 4:15 p.m. (I’m off for bangers, mash and ale, chap!)
Hotel: Strand Palace
Ph: 011.44.20.7257.9260
Fax: 011.44.20.7257.9227
Sunday, March 26
Free day
Guests at Jazz Vespers at St. Anne’s Lutheran Church led by Charlie Beale, one of the UK’s foremost jazz musicians! St. Anne's is also the place where a former colleague from Global Mission staff is now the pastor (Margrethe Kleiber - so I look forward to catching up with her)
Monday, March 27
9:00 a.m. Tea with the staff of the Church of England exec staff at Elizabeth House;
Meetings with the Anglican Consultative Council
Tuesday, March 28
Tour of Lambeth Palace (headquarters for Anglican Church)
Victoria and Albert Museum
5:00 Evensong at Westminster Abby
7:00 Group dinner and reflections
Wednesday, March 29 TRAVEL HOME!!!
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